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|Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>|
The route is 5.10 b/c if you go straight up.
Jackson describes this as "contrived and funky". However, a much mellower and more natural line (5.8) can be found by starting to the right of the first bolt (in the crack for How Ed's Mind Was Lost
) and weaving in and out of the bolt line to the top.
Behind the large tree at the base of West Rock. Lower or rap from anchors.
3 bolts plus 1 fixed pin to 2 bolt anchor.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
"Taos Rock" is in error, I think, in that it describes the climb that starts behind the tree left of How Ed Lost His Mind as 'New Rage', 5.9+. Don't get sandbagged; this is 'Ground Up'. It's full-on 5.10 if you stick with the bolts. The 5.9+ climb is actually about 20' to the left of 'Ed's Mind'.
I would recommend bringing wired nuts. Makes a few moves a lot more comfortable.