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West Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien T 
Geez Louise T 
Ground Up S 
Growth Spurt T 
How Ed Lost His Mind T 
Mad Bolter T 
New Rage T 

Ground Up 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Aug 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>


The route is 5.10 b/c if you go straight up.
Jackson describes this as "contrived and funky". However, a much mellower and more natural line (5.8) can be found by starting to the right of the first bolt (in the crack for How Ed's Mind Was Lost) and weaving in and out of the bolt line to the top.


Behind the large tree at the base of West Rock. Lower or rap from anchors.


3 bolts plus 1 fixed pin to 2 bolt anchor.

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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

"Taos Rock" is in error, I think, in that it describes the climb that starts behind the tree left of How Ed Lost His Mind as 'New Rage', 5.9+. Don't get sandbagged; this is 'Ground Up'. It's full-on 5.10 if you stick with the bolts. The 5.9+ climb is actually about 20' to the left of 'Ed's Mind'.

I would recommend bringing wired nuts. Makes a few moves a lot more comfortable.

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