Ground Hog Day
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Fred Beckey having a nice day out on April Fools d...
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Start with slabs and cracks to the right and uphill from the toe of the buttress. There is a very good 5.7 variation (Ain't Misbehavin') start to this climb which follows the blunt arete from the toe of the buttress.
Pitch 1: Aim for the large pine tree down and to the right of the big roofs (these roofs sit above the gully on the left side of the buttress). There is a 2-bolt anchor here. (5.6, 90')
Pitch 2: Head up and to the right of the steep difficulties, then back left above them. Continue up the blunt ridge to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. (5.5, 95')
Pitch 3: Easy cracks and slabs lead to a short section of steeper cracks and pockets. These end at a nice ledge with another 2-bolt anchor. (5.6, 110')
Pitch 4 (Not Recommended): There is another pitch above you if you want it. Head up the obvious lines to the top. The rock deteriorates (crumbly, mossy) quickly, but stays at the grade. Beware that there are no more bolted anchors above. (When I did it, we rapped off of a sling around a scary tottering choss pile.) I don't know for sure, but it looks likely that you can top out and walk off to the right. If you head up there, a bolt kit might be handy if you plan to rappel.
Stay well right of the large roofs that are on the left side of the buttress.
Standard rack to 2" Bolted anchors (except for the optional pitch 4). 70m rope or doubles recommended for the lengthy rappels.
Descent: Rappel the route (possibly walk off from the top of pitch 4). Note that the first rappel is 110'.
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Definitely do the 5.7 variation for pitch one, it's a fun pitch of climbing. Climbed that way, pitches 1 and 3 are great, but pitch 2 is pretty forgettable. The belay station at the top of pitch 3 is a great little perch in a remarkable position.
By Jay Hoover
Jul 13, 2015
You can walk off the 4th pitch to the right. Not really worth it though. The second pitch is more fun if you head straight up the steepest line rather than around it.
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 31, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
I'll cast my vote in favor of the 4th pitch, but I was soloing and not worrying about an anchor, gear, or a short pitch that wanders.