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Grotto Left (East Side)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affirmative Action S 
Bedeviled S 
Bergers Bakeshop S 
Better Late than Never S 
Bush in a Blender S 
Chopping Block S 
Cruella de Vil S 
Diabolical S 
Drama Queen S 
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 
Evil S 
Evil Paradise S 
Good S 
Hidden Slab S 
High on Fire S 
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 
Memory Block S 
Muscle Crow S 
Ojo (del Diablo) S 
Panic Attack T 
Paradise City S 
Prescribed Burn S 
Reverend, The S 
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 
Under Powered S 
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 
Waiting to Procrastinate S 
Welcome to the Jungle S 

Grotto Left (East Side) Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 15, 2006
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Scoping out the lines, March 2012

Description 

This area encompasses the entire left wall of the Grotto. Most of the climbs are typical Diablo climbs similar to Early wall, and Winter wall utilizing sloping crimps on vertical walls. As you continue up the grotto beginning around Evil Paradise (~100 yards up canyon) the upper tier's less featured tan basalt connects with the canyon floor, resulting in a more technical and varied style of climbing.

The rock, while incredibly dense, can be extremely fractured, requiring precautions taken to prevent rock fall. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers. Be especially careful after the winter freeze / thaw cycle.

The wall is East Facing so it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. In the winter it gets more shade and gets more sun in the summer. In early April the wall stays shaded until ~3:00. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool

Getting There 

After reaching the Grotto area, the Grotto Left is the left side of the Grotto. This area includes everything on the left wall, except the upper Tier climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',13],['5.11',10],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Grotto Left (East Side):
Hidden Slab   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Good   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Waiting to Procrastinate   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Paradise City   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Evil Paradise   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad   
Evil   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 90'   
Affirmative Action   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   
Chopping Block   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Prescribed Burn   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   
Welcome to the Jungle   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bedeviled   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Better Late than Never   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Bush in a Blender   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Muscle Crow   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Grotto Left (East Side)

Featured Route For Grotto Left (East Side)
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into some good hand jams low on the route....

Evil Paradise 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : ... : Grotto Left (East Side)
This great climb has a little bit of everything. It has crack climbing to laybacks to face to slab. Might be easiest to skip the bolted belay and be careful getting to the first bolt, at most 5.6....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Grotto Left (East Side) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overhead view of the lower grotto. Climber is on &...
Overhead view of the lower grotto. Climber is on &...
Rock Climbing Photo: Updated photo of Evil Paradise area.
BETA PHOTO: Updated photo of Evil Paradise area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. 8 - Evil ...
BETA PHOTO: Map of Evil Paradise area of the Grotto. 8 - Evil ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of lower grotto routes   Courtesy of Rick ...
BETA PHOTO: Picture of lower grotto routes Courtesy of Rick ...

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