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Groovy! 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Probably decided by a flip of a Coin.
Season: All. Morning Shade. Afternoon Sun.
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: BBQ on May 3, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

This is definitely the best route for the beginning climber that has ever been bolted at The Shadowlands.

Screw Doorf. Get on this one first. It only makes sense...it is literally the second climb you will encounter when you walk up the trail from the Shadow Lands parking lot.

Toss your rope onto the lovely ground of a very cleaned out belay station and enjoy every minute after that. This route actually starts out easy and works its way up a killer, double crack system that has ample jugs, sidepulls, pockets and really, really good crack climbing for those who have some basic vocabulary in finger locks and tight hands. If you feel around enough, you will actually find deep, positive pockets within the cracks.

After about the 5th bolt it makes more sense to stay right of the bolt line for a few moves on really good rock that sports edges and pockets on terrain that starts off slightly overhung and then suddenly gets good and overhung.

Fight your way through a crux through the last two bolts and get good and past your last bolt on terrain where the pump will keep you guessing right up until you clip the chains.

It really is cooler than most 5.9's in the canyon with the exception of maybe DragonFly and Totally Flaked. Those who flew up a 5.8, known as Strung Out on Crack, at Blue Sky, really need to skip their next session at The Black Betty Wall and just head on up to The Shadowlands. Get on this superb route and enjoy a groovy send that is as close to orgasmic as you can possibly get on easier Spearfish Canyon limestone.

Location 

First route on the very right hand side of The Wall of Wow.

Protection 

10 quickdraws. Open Anchors.


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