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Groovy Guru 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Henshaw, Chris Small 2012
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Mark Roberts on Jul 13, 2013

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Description 

Start under a small roof with a very positive left jug above it. Lock off, pull up and start into the seam. The gear in the thin is thinner than it looks from the ground, I didn't find a place for anything as big as a yellow Metolius until higher up. Small wires, small cams.

Distinct crux mid-height as you're passing a horizontal break with your feet. It's steeper and the locks are pretty thin. Like the rest of the crag, there are lots of rests everywhere including immediately before and after the crux.

Location 

The only route that starts below the head-height roof on the lower part of the crag. The thin seam is fairly distinctive.

Protection 

Small gear from purple Metolius/green C3 to #1 Camalot. Doubles in tips/fingers pieces. Chains at the top.

Takes good small gear. I fiddled with small wires my first time up this, but climbed it again last weekend and didn't waste my time with any nuts, took solid cams at comforting intervals.


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