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Groov'in  

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Joe Cote & "Friend" 1974
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Groov-in - showing the first two bolts

Description 

START: There is a very large Oak Tree growing only about 3-4 ft from the cliff; a left-slanting dike/groove leads from its base to a new 3/8" SS bolt about 15 ft up.
Climb the dike/groove (wire brush may be called for here, that oak sap provides plenty of nutrients for the lichen!) to the CRUX move ...BEFORE the BOLT! [Both guides give it 5.4, but that's "way old-school from the 1970's, then again 40 years of oak sap can slicken up rock.]... at least 5.5 and a harder move than anything on "WashBoard" ("5.6", 2004)] Then follow the clean, well-pocketed, and easier face past 3 more bolts to the dbl bolt anchor with chains.

Protection 

Draws for the bolts.


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