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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Mark Wilford and Scott Blunk, 1977
Page Views: 527
Submitted By: Mike Robinson on Jun 9, 2007

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  • Description 

    Pull on to the face of the Cozyhang Roof. There is no gear for the crux move from the looks of it.


    This route is in the middle of the Cozyhang Roof and follows the band made by the Dike.



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    By Jason Haas
    Feb 18, 2012

    Has anyone actually climbed this before? My partner and I decided to climb all the roof routes here today and I could figure out three. 1) Cozy Overhang, which is about 5 feet to the right of The Owl corner/roof. 2) There is a dike/groove going out the very center of the roof. There is an old fixed pin in the back of the roof and the ceiling is choss, but there's a distinct "U" cut out at the lip where the dike runs up and left. Is this Groove? 3) Pussycat is on the far right side, basically where the roof ends and the rock goes into the chimneyish crack next to East of the Sun. This route cuts hard left along a seam and around the corner to a left-angling crack/ramp. 1 and 3 matched their descriptions well, including their grade. 2 seemed like in the right location, but definitely not the right grade.

    We got on all three today and the center one is ridiculous. It's a massive, basketball-style dyno from the slab to the lip where a sloper jug awaits, then a funky mantle. A fall from the lip, at least how I mantled it, is asking for a head-first digger onto the slab below. Super "R" if not worse if you botch that. Hell, even the jump is "R". Mark is a mega-strong beast, but he's not exceptionally tall and so the dyno seems unrealistic (especially at the 10d grade) for his route Groove. Also, the roof is chossy with exfolitating flakes and no real holds, so there's no option of getting horizontal on it (especially for the grade). So the question is, where's the route Groove go? Rossiter's description places it exactly here, but I can't imagine that it's correct. I could easily have seen him do either Cozy Overhang or Pussycat and called it 5.10, and then the location of the route got lost in translation in the guidebooks. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
    By Jason Haas
    Feb 27, 2012

    Mike, did you do this route as you describe it? I gather from your route description you did not but simply added it to the site based on Rossiter's description? I'm taking that on the fact that you list the gear as "no gear for the crux move from the looks of it". If you did do it, I'd love to know your 5.10d beta as I thought it was pretty much 2 number grades harder than that.

    I spoke with Mark Wilford (reported first ascentionist) and Richard Rossiter (guidebook author) about this route, and they both said the same thing. What's listed in Rossiter's guidebook as "Groove" is actually the route listed as "Pussycat" as well, meaning the two routes are one and the same and the redundant route listing in the guidebook was an accident.

    To do "Groove" as described in Rossiter's book (route 12b on p12 in Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon) is somewhere between a 5.12 and 5.13- dyno, depending on your height. I'll add it to the database later with the corrected beta etc.

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