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Groove and Arete 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
Page Views: 1,287
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jun 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: The Boy Named Sue Boulder east face topo


Sit start with left hand pinching the arete, and the right on a good small flake. Make a stiff pull to reach a sharp pinch for the right hand, then move up higher on the arete with your left.

Continue moving up the arete with your left until the crux pull gains a good hold for the right up high.

From here seek out the small but positive holds up high and complete this excellent problem.

The problem is also good from the standing start, but for the full tick you need to start from sitting.


Left arete of east face



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By Tavis Ricksecker
Feb 22, 2012

Great problem except for the contrived first move.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Apr 18, 2013
rating: V4 6B

This is an example of a problem that is not improved by starting sitting. Starting one move higher, the problem climbs beautifully. The sit is awkward and thrutchy. While it is the 'full tick', it certainly isn't more enjoyable.
By Brandon Matthes
Aug 12, 2013

First move from the sit is hard, but definitely not bad or contrived, just requires some power and dedication.
By Andy Liu
From: Eastern Sierra
Sep 13, 2014

By Daniel Winsor
Sep 29, 2015
rating: V6 7A

The grades on this fantastic line need to be reassessed. Starting sitting with the left hand on the arete and the right on a crimp is absolutely NOT a V4 move. Starting with the right hand up on the cool pinch/spike feature (and left hand still low on the arete) is the only way this line is a V4, and it's a great way to climb the line if you're looking to get on a super-classic V4.

That first move adds at least a couple grades to the problem, pretty easily V6. Not that it's not worth doing, but I don't agree that the "full tick" for the V4 relies on executing that first move. I'm typically a pretty big ethics nazi when it comes to sit starts, but this line needs some clarification after the 9000th time I've heard "That's the hardest V4 on the planet". That's because it's not a V4 move.
By Tommy Klinefelter
Feb 26, 2016

FA was either moi or John Sherman, late eighties, sans sit start. One of my favorite problems, I think.

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