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Pferchfeldturm (Tower)
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Großer Südriss T 

Großer Südriss 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: H. Laub 1955
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Aug 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Großer Südriss lower section.


This thing is super cool! Having said that, there are plenty of people who hate this route too...
It's the obvious and impressive first crack you come to upon walking around the southern side of the tower. It starts with a difficult fingers section (keep to the right to make it easier) and then opens up to some nice hands and broadens into some tight chimney climbing. Then you climb out a roof and continue up easier rock.
At the top, you can either stop at the last ring or continue to the absolute top where there is no anchor. On top, to the right of the route and at the edge of the tower is an abseil ring which will get you to the lower platform, from which you can lower from a tree. The last few meters of climbing aren't really worthwhile and chances are you've got a fair bit of rope drag holding you back, so lowering off the last ring at 35m will put you back on terra firma. A 70m rope is an obvious must for this approach.


3 rings, full rack, slings for building an anchor.

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