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Große Südwand T 

Große Südwand 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: R. Scheiber 1948
Page Views: 17
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Aug 17, 2012

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Description 

This route is definitely a classic undertaking. Don't try to do it all in one push - the rope drag can get insane.
P1: Climb the slab up to a ring, through the fat crack and head right across more slab to a bolt/belay stance. If you like, continue up to the crack above without clipping this bolt (to minimize rope drag), place pro there and continue straight up to the next belay stance. (40')
P2: Climb the crack above the first belay stance and head straight up to the next belay stance with is right of a roof and below another. (30')
P3: Climb through the overhang a little and head straight out left until you reach a crack. The rock here is crumbly, so it is safer to place some pro in case a hold breaks and you plummet past your belayer. However, doing so kills you with rope drag at the end. Once you've reached the crack, follow it up to a rusty ring (can back up with a #1 Camalot) and follow the crack all the way up to the huge shit-covered bird's nest and the last belay stance. (55')
P4: Clip the bolt and fire through the overhanging crack to the top. (15')

Protection 

4 rings? Standard rack


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