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Gritty Gritty Bang Bang 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dylan Harris, John Barbella
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: old5ten on Dec 31, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Entering the crack section of the climb.

Description 

Climb up and slightly left toward the crack on easy ground. Gain the left crack and follow it to its finish, using the crack and face holds. The moves past the crack and around the last bolt are the crux, a bit more technical.

Location 

This route is on the left side wall of a right facing corner, roughly 60' left and up the hill from Warning: Laser Beam. It is characterized by a couple of cracks and shown as D in the Warning Signs far left routes topo.

Protection 

11 bolts, mussy anchor


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By Maidy
Mar 13, 2017
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I have mixed feelings about this route. All the "Unknown" new routes on the left are fun and worthy. This one is a face-full of good 5.9-10a climbing ending with a very weird mantle (definitely harder than 10a) that kills the fun-factor. Just my opinion- others may disagree and find the mantle engaging.

There's some satisfaction if you can decipher the mantle- but it is VERY specific choreography. I've witnessed some hanging, desperate/scary attempts to get around it and people aiding off the last draw in frustration.

The anchor has been moved to the face which has mitigated the rope dragging over the top edge- a good edit.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Mar 24, 2017

moving the anchor actually eliminated a couple of fun moves to get around the corner and up to the slab. there's a lot of grade inflation going on. i didn't think the mantle was that hard, just awkward and more body english than anything else. thinking required, i like that! getting a foot up and having some reach helps...
edit 4/4/17: just climbed this again last week. new anchor location is a bit funky, ie it seems like it would be better if the new anchor was a foot lower and reachable after stepping on the ledge. the way it is right now, one has to move along the edge above to get to the anchor only to set-up etc. while situated in a hanging situation just above that nice stance. imho those extra 3 or so sideways moves aren't quite worth it...
edit 4/27/17: just updated FA info and grading per john's wishes. he also mentioned moving the anchor one more time.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 15, 2017

I am glad to see people are liking this route. I did not enjoy it so much but it had just been put up, or as they say now "set"(haha), and every hold was dusty and there was a ton of loose rock. We were up there a couple of days ago and my partner had yet to climb all these new routes. After seeing the above comments and stars I was hopeful that my first impression was off so I did not discourage him from leading it. Although he is a bit fat (ahhahahahaha, just had to,sorry bro), he still seems to pull off some fairly hard pitches. Well, to not drag this out, we will just say he did not float it. He seemed to be a bit confused at the top and tried a couple of ways to finish it. Although he did not fall, he also did not make it look like 10a. When he clipped the chains instead of yelling "take", he yelled, "what a POS". I am hopeful that with time, like most of the newer routes, this thing will clean up but unfortunately that also means that the key holds at the top will clean right off as well making it 10a++. Regardless, I appreciate all of the routes John puts up and will continue to climb them. And in some way, even the ones I don't like I still like in some strange way. This route is a great example of how we all have different tastes. So? One star? Three stars? Give it a try, you might think 4 stars.

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