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Grippy Green 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Oct 13, 2013

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Start of Grippy Green 12a.

Description 

This is the "slabby" route that everybody looks at on their way to the steep routes at the Dark Side. However, few people stop to sample the intricate moves, interesting holds, and easy but spicy finish.

Follow a pretty, left arching flake past two bolts to a shake below the first crux. Small seams, and crimps gain a rail which leads right and up to a hueco with good holds in the back. Easy edges and amazing chicken heads peter-out to small iron rock protrusions just below a horizontal break. Brave a 15 foot runout on steeper, easier terrain to reach the next bolt. Typical pumpy moves lead to the chains.

Location 

Just off the trail, left of Small Fry.

Protection 

Bolts to a two bolt anchor. 60 meter rope to get down.


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