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Gripped Up the Hole T 

Gripped Up the Hole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Dave Evans and Kevin Powell, Feb. 1977
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Apr 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This climb involves novel and fun steep face moves, with significant runouts. A scary mantle (crux) near the bottom leads up to the first bolt. It's quite different from a standard JT slab climb, with medium to large holds on steep rock.


An obvious route up the east face of the southern rock.


Two bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")

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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 11, 2011

This climb has an anchor now;...has for about 10 years or so.....the down-climb was nasty, so someone put a bolted rap anchor on it.....
By C Miller
Apr 12, 2011

The two bolts on the route have been replaced and are 3/8". A medium sized cam protects the scary moves to the first bolt.

As for the downclimb it was/is nasty but a simul-rap was the ticket to getting off this in the past.
By Richard Shore
Jan 16, 2012

R rating for the start (crux), above the line is well-protected by the two bolts. Contrary to Chris' advice above, the crux is not protected by a medium cam, unless you want to stop halfway through the mantle move to place it. Press it out and clip the bolt. Fun, but mildly frightening. A novice version of "Surface Tension" over on Cyclops Rock.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 26, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Nice description of the opening moves, Richard.

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