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Happy Hour Crag
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Are We Not Men T,TR 
Are We Not Robots T,TR 
Baby Aliens T 
Bad Sneakers TR 
Bent Faith T 
Big Spit, The T 
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 
Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
Great Race, The T 
Grins T,TR 
Hands Off T 
I, Robot T,TR 
Last Call T,TR 
Last Laugh T,S,TR 
Left Side T 
Malign T,TR 
Nightcap T,TR 
Rush Hour T,TR 
Seein' Double TR 
Skid Row T 
Teetotaler T,S,TR 
Tipsey T,TR 
Twofers T,TR 
Twofers Bypass T,TR 
Twofers Gully T,TR 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Allen Wood and Dan Hare, 1979
Page Views: 8,006
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (252)
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Marga Powell at the crux move left. You can get a...

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  • Description 

    Begin about 20 feet below a big "tooth". Climb along the right side of the tooth and then head up right along the flare. This is a good "arm" jam. Finish off the face for the last 15 feet to the two bolt anchor. This is an excellent route for the first time lead on trad and for beginners trad practice!


    No bolts, use mid-sized nuts or small cams for most of the climb. You need a #3 Camalot for a large crack about 3/4 of the way up. Two bolt chained anchor at the top. You are able to top rope this ONLY with a 60m rope.

    Photos of Grins Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Grins 5.8, full view.
    Grins 5.8, full view.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the crux. Bill?
    Just below the crux. Bill?
    Rock Climbing Photo: Happy Hour Crags, Grins, TR with Angie Parris-Rane...
    Happy Hour Crags, Grins, TR with Angie Parris-Rane...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top.
    Near the top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chewie leading Grins.
    Chewie leading Grins.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joe C. cruising through the wide section on Grins.
    Joe C. cruising through the wide section on Grins.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ruth Larner enjoying Grins.
    Ruth Larner enjoying Grins.

    Comments on Grins Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 17, 2017
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 20, 2001
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This is a good route for beginners to learn to hand-jam in.
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Nov 14, 2001

    I agree that this route is a good route to hand jam in but perhaps not to be leading at first, it is easy but not that easy, take one of the routes to the left like Twofers and lead this for practice, but indeed this route has nice hand jams. I would give it 3 stars where you only gave it 2, it is worth 3.
    By Matt White
    Feb 27, 2002

    I agree with the three star rating. This is a fun pitch, and a great lead. The crux (for me) was a high-step from a stance at an undercling about halfway up. The gear is fantastic all the way up.

    ...and as much as I hate to disagree with Myke, I've belayed topropers on this climb with a 50m cord, and it works just fine.
    By Charles Danforth
    From: L'ville, CO
    Sep 10, 2003

    TRed this one yesterday and had a dandy time. As has been mentioned, a 50m rope is just long enough for the climb, which ever side of the tooth you start on. The anchors are pretty exposed, though and I rigged a bellay to get out there. Fantastic climb, 3-stars all the way. I didn't see too manyhand jam opportunities but there was a nice mix techniques from stemming to laybacks. The crux is about half way up with a thin finger crack/dihedral stem to a fat undercling to another layback.Anyway, gorgeous climb on quality rock!
    By Michael Kullman
    Oct 21, 2003

    Fun climb. I think it's definitely a good first 5.8 lead as it isn't all that sustained and has plenty of good rest stances to get in solid pro.
    By Jason Shatek
    Dec 6, 2004

    Just led this one on saturday. very good route with lots of pro. The crux is definately turning a corner using hand jams, so make sure you can jam well. Plenty of pro, bring big cams 2,3,4 or big hexs for upper portion of the route.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 22, 2005

    Lot of fun. Don't miss it if at the crag.
    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Jun 26, 2007

    Last time I climbed this was with a semi-beginner. I think I'll leave off his name. He led it, belayed, then took in the rope. So far so good. At this point, as per usual, I wanted to put my climbing shoes on. I stepped back to grab them, but the rope was already tight. And stayed tight.

    I yelled, ”slack!“ over and over, but the creek was high, he was way out of sight above, and he could not hear. In fact, he just pulled harder. So I ended up in midair, upside down, just off the ground; swinging like a mad spider, pawing the ground like a dog running on a hardwood floor and panting and laughing like a mad drunk, and eventually grabbed one shoe.

    I righted myself, put it on hanging with my feet just inches off the ground, then commenced battle again. A crucial couple of inches had since been pulled in, so I could barely reach the ground anymore. Finally, I found a handy stick to prod the shoe closer, and lift it off the ground so I could grab it. Hmmmm. Rereading this, I think perhaps I should leave my name off too.
    By Stich
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Sep 22, 2007

    Egads, Steve! Now you've gone and signed your name to that one.
    By Joe Brannan
    From: Lyons, CO
    Jul 31, 2008

    My third 5.8 trad lead. I agree it was a great beginner route, as state above, for this grade.
    By Brown Guy
    From: Lafayette, CO
    Oct 4, 2009

    I'm a super noob as far as trad leading is concerned and have probably lead a dozen routes... and I say Beauty!... very appropriately named. I grinned like a retard when I got to the top. This is one of the most sustained routes (<5.8). I've climbed at Happy Hour about 20 feet below the chains there was the option of going left or right. I attempted going right, placed a cam, clucked like a chicken, retrieved my cam, descended, and went left which I thought was easier... assuming I am not high, any comments on what this variation is rated?

    I used 8 pieces total... 2 small Aliens, cam and hexes. Twofers was my first 5.8 lead on trad a couple weeks ago. If I were to compare I'd say this one was longer and more sustained with 2-3 interesting moves. Steve's story was a great way to get started on this route.
    By farkas.time
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Aug 14, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Good route. Bad pro at the start, and good climbing doesn't begin until nearly half-way up the route! Twofers is better.
    By Karissa Sampson
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 7, 2013

    Awesome climb! The crux gets your heart pumping but has great hand holds, small holds and friction for feet. A member of our party had to bail off lead just past the crux as to avoid being late for work this morning. A small nut and nonlocker, tagged blue/purple, were left behind. I will be headed back tomorrow (Monday) after work to retrieve them, but if anyone is up there today...I would greatly appreciate them returned, in exchange for a couple beers on me after your climb. Nine-1-9-four26-seven1sevenfive. Climb on!
    By rien WaNderlust
    From: Nederland
    Jun 19, 2015

    As much fun as Dementia & Nightcap are, think I'd say my fave at Happy Hour!
    By Grey Satterfield
    From: Broomfield
    Feb 17, 2017
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Super great climb, I found the crux much harder than Twofers. Just my two cents.

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