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Gringo Disco 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kurt Smith & Ned Harris - 1996
Page Views: 1,888
Submitted By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Description 

A fantastic, long pitch full of pockets and crimps! Start about 5 meters left of the Central Scrutinizer and head up and left for 50 meters. Gringo Disco can be descend with a single 60m rope by using other anchors (e.g. Mr. P. Mosh or the Central Scrutinizer).

Protection 

Bolts with anchors.


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By Robert MacKinnon
Jun 14, 2008

No single move seemed harder to me than 11a but the length makes it harder than most 11a's.
By Paul Stockamore
From: New York, NY
Jan 6, 2010

70meter rope gets you close but your belayer will need to scramble up to a small ledge about 10 feet up to finish lowering to the ledge.
By Pink Thunder
From: Aurora
Jan 27, 2016

Sweet long route. Do it. Hardest part is the last few bolts, just for the pump factor.
By John Hovell
From: San Francisco, California
Jan 1, 2017

This is an incredible climb. One thing I was not psyched on was the anchors - there are at least 3 separate pairs of chains (one possibly belonging to central scrutinizer). The two closest to the natural line are maybe 5 meters apart vertically at roughly 45 and 50 meters. The lower set is loose, rusted but has at least one large hanger that doesn't need a ring (sorry don't know the name) and a homemade looking relic. The upper anchors are heavily rusted large steel homemade type with rusted chain, but are at least not loose and look possibly solid but look like they belong in a museum. Decided to rap off the upper chains rather than weight with 2 people. A few of the bolts on the route looked older as well (and some real relics on neighboring routes) ... maybe I don't know how to judge but I would recommend the anchor need replacing with a real climbing anchor and not hardware store steel for a guidebook classic. Really fun climbing though. Incredible pockets and huecos.
By mountainhick
From: Black Hawk, CO
Feb 10, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Did it today... agreed, this route's hardware could use an update, especially the wonky anchors. But, very fun route with lots of thoughtful sequences interspersed between quite good stances. Clipping the last bolt was the crux for me. I'd sure like a a lighter weight rope for these long pitches on the Scrutinizer!
By alligatoralice
Mar 7, 2017

A 70m ropes does NOT get you close to the ground at all. My partner and I did it with a 70 m and it maybe got him to the third bolt. Make sure your belayer ties into the rope so he/she can begin to climb up safely in order to lower you.

Alternatively, the leader can belay the second up, and rappel using the left anchors of Mr. Pmosh as intermediary rappel anchors. I agree that the hardware of the anchors may need a bit of an update though, and it's hanging belay, so it is not the most comfortable belay situation.

Great climb but the anchor situation and rappelling situation is a little complicated for a single pitch route. Be safe!

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