REI Community
Gotham City
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bat Angel  S 
Boy Wonder S 
Double Flipper S 
Dr. Evil S 
Flex Your Head S 
Grindrite S 
In the Pink T 
Joker's Acid Bath S 
Kingsnake S 
Machine Gun Jumblies S 
Mr. Freeze T 
Penguin, The S 
Poison Ivy S 
Riddler S 
She's A Man, Man S 
Superfly S 
Tall Dollar S 
Transflexual S 
WollY bugger S 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Calder/Marty Lewis
Page Views: 5,177
Submitted By: sesser125 on Jan 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
When a climber chick looks up and sees this, it is...


A slabby ramp leading to a Yosemite like dihedral on beautiful grey rock. The slab is easier terrain with more widely spaced bolts. The crux is near the top of the route and incorporates liebacks and/or stemming. Holds are generally good throughout the entire route. This route is somewhat of an anomoly for the Gorge since it involves more technique opposed to mostly power, making it a climb to not miss.


This route is located about 150 ft left and around the corner from Flex Your Head (5.11c). The large dihedral about 60 ft up cannot be missed. Rappel or lower using one rope.


12 Bolts

Photos of Grindrite Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt D. entering the dihedral
Matt D. entering the dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux. After this don't relax. it's not over un...
BETA PHOTO: The crux. After this don't relax. it's not over un...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Calder aka Grindrite
Kevin Calder aka Grindrite

Comments on Grindrite Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2016
By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Jan 22, 2007

best .11b in the gorge.
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 18, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

If you want a Yosemite-like corner, go do Jaws of Life (5.10b) at the Flavin Haven wall.

Also a warning, the anchors have been lowered off of a few too many times. The hooks are worn thin and are in need of replacement. Rappel is recommended.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Jul 4, 2007

Right, well, ok then.. Definately one of the best 11's I've done in the gorge. Way more technical than the average 11b at the gorge, but also way less pumpy. Just get on it!
By HeatherB-Radley
From: Augsburg, Germany
Oct 5, 2009

awesome climb!! and it definitely makes you think! the crux is a little height dependent, so it was a lot trickier for the smaller people in our group.
By zwang
Feb 1, 2010

a key hold broke off while i was climbing it in January about the size of a baseball at the crux. I don't believe it changed the rating as there is still a good edge where the hold broke but I was quite surprised there was any loose rock on this route.
By Tavis Ricksecker
May 15, 2010

LOL I took a whip off this thing just today.. broke a 1/2" edge off just after the crux... just when i thought i had it in the bag. Climbed back up and found that i didnt need that hold after all.. good thing too because it was now lying in the talus below! :)
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Good one! I know appreciate the Gorge....
By Victor Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 14, 2011

absolutely classic
By SHOPE Christian
From: Corvallis, OR
Dec 18, 2012

What is the route that starts just to the right of this one and tops out at 35+ as noted at the top of the route?
I climbed this mystery route months ago and can't stop thinking about it now that its snowing. The dihedral is just amazing.
By tahoemnts Schroeder
From: Truckee, California
Nov 10, 2014

Awesome climb and did this yesterday for the first time. I'm 5'9" and couldn't figure out the crux move to the high left hold. I had to pull through. I'm open to any beta on this move. Thanks.
By Vlad S
Dec 2, 2014

I climbed it a few years ago and at the crux 1/2 way up couldn't figure out the move you are asking about. Ended up doing some sketchy off-route climbing on the arete to the right to bypass this crux. Got on it a few days ago. Turns out you can do a very wide stem off the smooth right side of the upside-down V-slot. I'm 5'8" and that way the crux felt easy. Almost hands-free. My wife at 5'1" found it impossible, though.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jan 12, 2015

If you are short (I'm about 5'6/5'7 and have short arms and legs), a dynamic move involving the two crimps at the crux, left edge, and a dish inside of the A-frame roof thing will get you to that triangular jug. I also have a low IQ, so there is probably a far more technical way to execute the move, but after endless tries that is what worked for me.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 27, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Superb pitch- technical, long, sustained climbing with a very distinct crux right in the middle.

Best 5.11 in the Gorge? Well, if you're my height, its a contender for sure, but for those who are vertically challenged, I'd say its frustratingly difficult.
By kck
Oct 5, 2015

I had to work at it to find a way to do it. I am 5'10" average wingspan and I could not crimp and reach up to the "jug" on the left. The hold directly above the crimps is a sloper. Don't even try dynamoing for it.

In the end I found a cool stemming way to do it which did not even use the jug on the left.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Oct 16, 2016

Move into the upside-down V-slot, nice edge for right foot,step up and reach the top of the v for a hand jam that will feel insecure but if you get your left foot high the jam locks in, clip bolt.

Did not seem Yosemite like to me.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About