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The Owl Farm
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Font Problem (aka See Ya at the Yard Meat), The 
Grin and Bear It 
Shoehorn 
Sidewalk 
South Street 
Street Side 
Unsorted Routes:

Grin and Bear It 

Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,100
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Aug 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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First ascentionist Scott Sanchez.

Description 

The Banks' guide gives this V6. I still haven't quite sent, but I have all but one move dialed, and I think it is hard as nails for V6. I'm reluctant to up the grade before sending, but just fair warning: this is no gimme.
The crux seems to be grabbing a small, knobby 2-3 finger crimp and then the move afterward to a nice edge.
To me there looks to be evidence of foothold breakage, but you never know. Maybe the old SB crew were just total badasses and campused off of two finger crimps. I'd believe it.

Location 

Sit start on the "smile crimp" just right of the tree and head up right to join South Street.

Protection 

One pad is sufficient. Though if you're just working the hard bits, you're a foot off the ground and you don't even need one.


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 10, 2010

I agree. This problem stymies most climbers right off the deck. Especially hard on a hot summer day, even though it's in the shade.
By Bob Banks
Sep 2, 2010

One of the crimps broke a few years ago making this quite a bit more difficult.
By Scott Sanchez
Jan 13, 2016

I sent this so long ago, I would not know what hold were or were not there. All of that said Bob, would know best he was there for the FA. I do remember the holds were small and the crimps hurt. That whole area has super fun bouldering. thanks Bob for the tour!

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