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Grim Aura 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Chris Way
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,198
Submitted By: chris way on Apr 24, 2002

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  • Description 

    This nine bolt route links Primeval, Shine, and Sucking.... Begin on the first three bolts of Primeval, branch left, and continue in a straight line to the anchors of Sucking My Will by passing through the middle of Shine.


    Nine bolts plus anchors.

    Comments on Grim Aura Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 26, 2016
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Apr 14, 2003

    [Eds. a couple negative comments were deleted here.] The route is certainly at least 13c and while it isn't the choicest climb on the wall, it's worth a run. The Primo Wall and adjacent Nomad Cave have the highest density of 5.13 and up routes outside of Rifle. Virtually everywhere else there are one or two good climbs and that's it. The reason why is that people took the trouble to add routes that others...consider a waste of time. If you don't like the climb stay off it but quit dissing others for their efforts. Try to surpass them with your own.
    By Scott Hahn
    May 12, 2006
    rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

    Does this route do the crux of Primeval then bust left or does it go left before that???
    By chris deulen
    From: Castle Rock
    Jun 17, 2006

    I believe it's before that. Not that I've done it. But the description does say do the first 3 bolts of Primeval, then bust left (the crux is between the 4th and 5th, if I'm not mistaken).
    By Scott Hahn
    Jun 25, 2006
    rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

    Thanks. It is definitely the random looking bolt before you really get hammering on Primeval.
    By Rob Eison
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 5, 2011
    rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a

    Now that I'm quite intimate with this brilliant climb, here's a more thorough description: shoot up to the third bolt on Primeval, then traverse left to the slanting jug on Shine, clipping 3 bolts along the way including the high long draw. Do the V7, core-dependent first crux of Shine, then up and a little left to the good crimp flake and clip above. Blow off the next draw only 3 feet above this tenuous rest(not worth the effort), take a deep breath and coil up for the tricky V8, length-dependent, barn-doory boulder problem up to the good rail and finish the glory moves on Sucking. This required some creative foot work found accidentally, bicycling the good flake with a right heel hook. Now, if I could just get enough sleep to stick that last move....
    By mlloyd
    From: denver
    May 15, 2012
    rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

    Today I finally completed the upper boulder problem without the broken hold that used to make this section link. It's very height-dependent and much harder than any of the 13d's I have done, perhaps 14a ... what do others think? I haven't sent the route yet, and I'm still a fair number of burns from doing it, but I was just curious.
    By mlloyd
    From: denver
    May 31, 2012
    rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

    Got the flailing send on this rig yesterday, without the broken/ glued/ not there crux hold. I think this route deserves 14a upgrade without that hold... but that's just my fluffing opinion. Has anyone else done this route after the hold broke? I would be curious what other people think.... Good fun.
    By Rob Eison
    From: Denver, CO
    May 31, 2012
    rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a

    Nice work, Matt! Haven't heard anyone else send this after the crux hold broke. I agree it probably warrants 14a now. I'm not sure I could do it now without the tooth. What remains doesn't really qualify as a hold and the alternative moves require an impressive wingspan, unfortunately one of my deficiencies. Congrats!
    By mlloyd
    From: denver
    May 31, 2012
    rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

    Thanks, Rob, I spent ten days putting it together between seeing you there (and getting good beta from you) and the send, kinda epic.
    By jackies
    Aug 23, 2012

    Visiting Japanese climber Toru Nakajima just did this route today. It is his first day in Colorado. Not sure what he thinks of the grade, but I will post if he shares an opinion. Has anyone else sent since Matt's post-break send?
    By Chris. T.
    May 16, 2015
    rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

    I sent this route today, using the original straight-up sequence above the crux bolt. I used what remains of the 'broken hold' and was able to make the long move to the good righthand sidepull just before joining 'Sucking'.

    I'm not sure about the grade, as I've only been on a handful of routes in this range. The crux move seems a bit 'length-dependent', but I have seen it done by someone shorter than myself.

    • My crux beta*
    Right hand on the broken hold, left hand on the gaston flared crack/crimp, paste the feet, and launch to the good right hand sidepull!

    Grim Aura offers classic Primo climbing and deserves more traffic.
    By Adam Peters
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    May 17, 2015

    Nice work, Chris! I guess we won't see you up there today :)
    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    May 17, 2015

    Nice send, Chris! Ya, that move is now definitely hard and height-dependent, great job figuring it out. I am going to settle for a slightly easier variation, going left at the broken hold, instead of straight up which would make it around 13c, instead of 13d.
    By Chris. T.
    May 17, 2015
    rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

    Thanks, Adam and Kevin!

    Adam, I enjoyed hanging at the crag with you guys, and I sent just a few minutes after you left. It started raining again.

    Kevin, I was under the impression that Matt's 'post-break' send also traversed left at the crux, avoiding the broken hold. I must have had tunnel vision, 'cause I didn't think to try it that way.
    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    May 17, 2015

    Ya, it's a fun variation and easier for those of us who can't stick that move yet.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 26, 2016

    I left my Grigri 2 (orange) with a gold Petzl Attaché biner at the base of Primo Wall on Wednesday, February 24th, 2016 somewhere between the warmups on the left hand side and Shine. Please message me if you find it....

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