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Gridlock 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Feb 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (109)
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Mike warming up on the Unnamed 5.11a at the Galler...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Between Running Amuck and Gridlock Direct, start from the ground and mantle up onto the ledge to clip the first bolt, head right on jugs to a long move in order to clip the 3rd bolt climb straight up to the anchors.

Protection 

5 bolts shared anchor with Running Amuck and Gridlock Direct


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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 7, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

On 12/7/10, the ASCA replaced the last bolt on this route along with the shared anchor. All bolts are 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece. The anchor is equipped with quicklinks and rap rings.
By Climber Ryan
From: Auburn, CA
Dec 3, 2012

The description for the 11a (left start) is miss leading. First clip is a little sketchy if you less than 6 foot. There are finger busting crimps for the first two bolts. Then you are at a lovely jug way right of the third bolt that is a parilous reach back to the left. Once the third bolt is clipped the climb is mellow. First three bolts are way harder than Yaak Crack. Not a good fall at nearing the third bolt. I know I made it twice.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Its a good idea to clip the 3rd bolt off the crimps to avoid the scary fall- which is safe if you have the bolt clipped.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Mar 27, 2017

I'm 5'8" with a t-rex index of +3. I could not clip the 3rd off the crimps at all. Was a very tough reach left from the jugs to clip it. As Ryan said the fall above the second bolt when bumping out right is bad, my partner took a brake strand to the groin.
We actually stick clipped the 3rd bolt from across the way on the boulder, this was pretty damn sketchy too.

I might have just been tired on the 4th day straight climbing but the move around the 3rd bolt felt about V4ish to me. Makes me wonder if the route has lost a crimp over the years?

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