Grey Rat Rocksicle
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,465 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 5, 2010 |
Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
Grey Rat Rocksickle is a fun slab and crack line that climbs < 10 feet left of Shadow Dance.
Begin on a rock at the base of the slab, 15 or 20 feet "downhill" of the bushes on the upper part of the ledge. Run it out through some 5.8 face moves to a left-angling seam that will offer some small, tricky pro. Continue up the face, connecting protectable features with enjoyable slab climbing. Finish up at the chain anchors beneath the roof, or belay there and climb a second pitch through the crumbly, licheny left side of the roof above and continue to the summit.
Begin on a rock at the base of the slab, 15 or 20 feet "downhill" of the bushes on the upper part of the ledge. Run it out through some 5.8 face moves to a left-angling seam that will offer some small, tricky pro. Continue up the face, connecting protectable features with enjoyable slab climbing. Finish up at the chain anchors beneath the roof, or belay there and climb a second pitch through the crumbly, licheny left side of the roof above and continue to the summit.
Location
This line is located on the upper tier of the South Slabs and climbs the face just left of the right-most line of bolts on the wall to gain a thin crack that angles up and left. Approach via any of the routes on the lower tier, Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry being a convenient, fun option, as it ends almost immediately below this route.
Protection
Bust out the small stuff for this climb. RPs, small cams, and maybe offsets (nuts and/or cams) are definitely necessary to protect the seam. Above that, the pro continues to be small and tricky. Clipping the first two bolts of Shadow Dance takes the spice out of the opening runout, if you're so inclined.
0 Comments