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Greensprings Rock Climbing 

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Location: 42.12805, -122.48797 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,544
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Katie.Bradley87 on Sep 22, 2012
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Easy access once you are there.

Getting There 

Take Greensprings Hwy (66) past Emigrant Lake 14.8 miles to Tyler Creek Road on the right. Follow Tyler Creek down a hill ~.25 miles, to pullout on right side. Trail will be on the left.
Approach is short, but steep with loose gravel.

Climbing Season

For the Southwest Oregon area.

Weather station 4.2 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Greensprings

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Greensprings:
Marge's Navel   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Razor Crack   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Six Cheetahs   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   
Full Marge    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Greensprings

Featured Route For Greensprings
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Marge

Full Marge 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Oregon : Southwest Oregon : Greensprings
Start with Marge's Navel and continue to the top. A few .ll moves with closely spaced bolts to good anchors and a beautiful view of the valley.Can be top roped by scrambling up the far left side of the formation and stepping across to the column. Wouldn't recommend but there are good bolts on top for protection....[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Comments on Greensprings Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joshua Jones
From: San Tan Valley, az
Apr 7, 2013
Great climbing on polished granite. There are a lot of sport routes out here. For a more complete guide check out Greg Orton's guide book for the Rogue - excellent resource for Southern Oregon climbers.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Apr 27, 2013
I don't mean to be rude or unkind, but the rock at Greensprings is neither granite nor glacially polished. Orton's guide describes it as columnar basalt. I would agree that it is extrusive, but not basalt. The rock is very light colored for basalt, closer to rhyolite.

And, I agree with Joshua's main point; that there are a few cracks at Greensprings that provide some of Ashland's best training for slippery Yosemite cracks.
By David Chambers
Feb 8, 2015
Greesprings is columnar basalt. Bummed that the lovely 5.11c "Boys Who 'Aint French" isn't on here! (How do you add routes?)
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Feb 8, 2015
Emailed you about how to add routes.
By Scott Becker
From: Medford, Oregon
Jun 20, 2016
Nice description (good reason to buy the guidebook, I guess). This is a good summertime crag as long as you get there early and finish up by noon (faces west). Seeps pretty late into the spring if it's wet.
It's also worth noting that this crag is on private property. The land owners are cool about people climbing here but it still pays to be respectful.
By Zach Davis
From: Talent, Oregon
Sep 5, 2016
I love this place. Hairway to Stheven , on the most exposed buttress, is a lovely reward after an early crux that is more confusing than hard. Often you have the place to yourself.
By Jamir Lopez
Feb 6, 2017
GPS location is inaccurate. I went there last weekend and was unable to find the place. Could someone update the coordinates and/or update the directions.

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