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Green Wall 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: e Dixon on Aug 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Circle: fixed pin. X: bolt.

Description 

Climb the face on the right side of the south face, passes one drilled pin and ends at the same belay as Right X.

Location 

Right side of the south face, just right of Right X.

Protection 

Typically toproped. One drilled pin.


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By eli poss
From: Durango, Co
Sep 21, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This would be a 4 star classic if it was lead-able. Would it rustle anybody's feathers too much if some bolts were added to make it lead-able? I wouldn't imagine people would mind too much considering there is already a drilled angle in place.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 21, 2015

IDK, Eli,

...some folks are pretty adamant about altering routes established on lead, and I've heard this one was.

BTW, it IS capable of being led.
By eli poss
From: Durango, Co
Sep 23, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Huh, it seemed like this route is designed to be TRed, it seems kind of weird put up a TR route on lead, and with the only a single drilled angle 1/3 way up, I'd consider this more of a free solo than a lead. Do you know who the first ascentionist/ route equipper was on this one?

FWIW, I am one of the folks that would be hesitant to altering a route put up on lead, even with FA permission, but I have a hard time believing this specific route was indeed put up on lead.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 24, 2015

Again, in 1988, when I led it, I'd heard it had been put up on lead.

But sure, it'd be nice if wasn't an X-rated route...what do X-Rock regulars think?
By joedeltron
Oct 4, 2015

My 2 cents is like The Itch and Red Book all doable leads, just sketchy. I think X Rock is better as it is, instead of making it all sport. Plenty of that around here anyway.
By -mn
Oct 12, 2015

Below the pin there's a bomber yellow Alien (if memory serves), and after the crux, there's a red Alien or maybe a 0.75 - again if mem.... Also, there's descent pro down low in some horizontals. Really, a pretty casual lead - "4 stars", ha ha.
By eli poss
From: Durango, Co
Oct 14, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Perhaps I follow a different line than you, but I don't recall there being a red Alien placement after the crux, and I was not suggesting making it a sport climb but rather a bolt protected trad lead.

If I were to bolt it, I'd only be adding 2 bolts above the drilled angle and none below. It would still be a bold lead, in my opinion, especially given the nature of the route, and a fall certainly would not be fun but also wouldn't kill you.

Edit: after doing a lot of thinking and reflecting, I came to the conclusion that adding bolts to this wouldn't be the best decision as it may set a precedent that "adding bolts to existing climbs is okay". Later, more bolts might be added and this climb deserves better than to become a safe bolted sport route.

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