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Green Valley Gap

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 Gauge Conversion TR 
2 Weeks Notice S 
Australian Monk T 
Bare Necessities S 
Beggars and Choosers S 
Benefit of the Doubt S 
Bitter Recriminations S 
Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 
Butterflies Arete TR 
Chinese Gauncho T 
Cool Katz S 
Damned If You Do TR 
Damned If You Don't TR 
Dueling Grandmas S 
Factional Infighting TR 
Fat Black Chuck S 
Flue Shot S 
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 
Hairy Virgin TR 
Hue and Cry S 
I'm hungry, I've got to poop! S 
Inquisition, The S 
Jezabel T 
Knee Replacement S 
Lamenites S 
Lincoln's Lament T 
Luck of the Irish S 
Moral Dilemma S,TR 
Nemesis S 
Nephites S 
Not Arrgh S 
Pain in the Cass! S 
Parking Slot TR 
Perky's Playground S 
Presidential Centerfold T 
Presidential Warfare T 
Puppet Strings S 
Quickening, The S 
Redneck Wonderland S 
Rock!! n' Roll T 
Roosterhead Ridge TR 
Sand Stoner Reverse S 
Short and Dorky S 
Shotgun Baptism S 
Skin Graft S 
Stick to your Guns S 
Tape Up 
Unknown T,TR 
Washingtons' Wig T 
Wave, The S,TR 
West Wave TR 
Where Egos Dare S 

Green Valley Gap Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.08852, -113.63779 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,549
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 18, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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A west/east trending kind of tight canyon. Typical sandstone routes, just short. It can be cool in the winter, but my guess is hot in the summer. Most routes are on the north face.

Getting There 

Take Sunset Blvd west of the airport mesa to Dixie Drive Road and turn left. Continue until you reach Canyon View Rd, and turn right. Continue until the pavement ends. Continue as far as your car will allow aiming for the narrow canyon almost directly west of the end of the pavement. Either park at the base of the canyon and hike in or drive up the side (rt) of the canyon and hide down or rap down.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.9 miles from here

52 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Green Valley Gap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Green Valley Gap:
Cool Katz   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 35'   
Flue Shot   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 35'   
Lincoln's Lament   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 30'   
Perky's Playground   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Luck of the Irish   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 30'   
Hue and Cry   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Puppet Strings   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
The Wave   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 30'   
Beggars and Choosers   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 40'   
Pain in the Cass!   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Shotgun Baptism   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 30'   
Benefit of the Doubt   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
The Inquisition   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Moral Dilemma   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Skin Graft   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Stick to your Guns   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Sand Stoner Reverse   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 45'   
The Quickening   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Short and Dorky   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Green Valley Gap

Featured Route For Green Valley Gap
Rock Climbing Photo: Robear making the big starting moves

Moral Dilemma 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Utah : Saint George : Green Valley Gap
Big fun moves on a pocketed sandstone arete. This route is in the shade by 1200. Possible to do in summer. Longer draws will reduce rope drag....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Green Valley Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 12.a sand stoner in reverse
BETA PHOTO: 12.a sand stoner in reverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Local dirtbag living at the crag
Local dirtbag living at the crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Marty Larsen on "Not Arragh" at the Gap
Marty Larsen on "Not Arragh" at the Gap
Rock Climbing Photo: You'll find a plethora of lizards at the Gap
You'll find a plethora of lizards at the Gap
Rock Climbing Photo: Working my way up the chimney.
Working my way up the chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty fun 5.8 chimney, I don't know its name.
Pretty fun 5.8 chimney, I don't know its name.
Rock Climbing Photo: Melissa climbing at the gap.
Melissa climbing at the gap.

Comments on Green Valley Gap Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 25, 2017
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 11, 2006
This place has great rock. Fun little sandstone sport climbing area. I was how ever very disappointed in all the trash at this place. There's a washing machine down in the canyon, not to mention other crap. It was really horrible looking!! A lot of anchor bolts were cut and smashed...At least one in the pair would be...Whats up with that...?

Also don't bother using the old guide book for this area... It will just waste your time to try and figure out what is what...And we still don't know must of what we climbed... Just get on it if it looks good.

Also witnessed some bullsh*T at this area. I don't remember the name of the climb (I think it was an .11b...maybe called Moral Dilemma...That would be ironic), anyway some guy removed the first bolt/hanger because it was a spinner... It looked fine and I even clipped it myself (even though you would deck if you fell onto it, but I'm sure it would of held a fall)... But instead of tightening the damn bolt, he just stole the hanger. I wish I would of said something about that, but at the time I didn't think it was my business to say anything (couple of them were locals). I think this group was a bunch of idiots and next time I'll say something...

The guy who stole the hanger had to stick clip the next bolt......PUSSY!

St. G locals...Sorry for not standing up and saying something....
By Jen H
From: Holladay, Ut
Nov 4, 2006
Have to agree with the previous post. We spent 2 hours trying to figure out the climbs in the area and was highly disappointed. Bolts and anchors were missing. With all the other areas around St. George, this is one to skip.
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Nov 6, 2007
I agree that this area isn't the best that St. George has to offer. However, there are some fun routes here in the .10 - easy .12 range, with the majority being top ropes or more moderate climbing. If you're a beginner climber or just starting leading this is a good area to frequent. The routes here are typically short, easy to toprope, while a few of them have missing bolts. This is a good winter crag.

It feels to me that the St. George locals abandoned this area as they found stellar climbing in other areas. Regardless, props to T. Goss and the rest of the St. George crew for their herculean effort in establishing so many lines around St. George.
By Kendall
From: St George, UT
Apr 1, 2009
I love this area. I'm a local and fairly new to climbing regularly, but I think this will always be one of my favorite spots in St. G. My friends and I had a brand new copy of the guidebook and we found it quite useful, I've heard there have been many improvements on the section on this area from past editions. Anyways, great place to start out, many easy single-pitch climbs and a beautiful area.
By Jared R
Mar 1, 2010
The bolts that were once missing seem to have found their way back. This area is a really fun area. The routes are short but fun. There are lots of opportunities for short, fun trad climbing all along the cliff band. Most of which use gear anchors or sling boulders for top anchors. It is super fun. Bring your trad gear and have a great day of cragging 30' trad lines.
By Andrew W Smith
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Mar 27, 2011
Just a shout-out to the University of Utah. a lot of the new bolts and chains that have been put up in the last 2-3 years were put up by the Climbing department from the U.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Apr 5, 2011
Fabulous area if you want to knock off some great short climbs. The quality of rock is very nice. I recommend it. Sand Stoner Reverse is simply awesome!
By Hector
Aug 7, 2011
By Dan Lay
Dec 20, 2011
I left a gold Link Cam near "hair today gone tomorrow". If anyone finds it, please let me know.
By Wilson Hansen
Jan 17, 2012
Does anyone know who put the route to the left of stick to your guns up, the one straight up the slab? Rating? Thanks.
By ClimbingUte
Feb 11, 2014
Anyone know what the route name is for the bolted and chained chimney route between "Where Egos Dare" and "Hair Today Gone Tomorrow"?
By Yohannas Mamamas
Jun 25, 2017
I found a pair of yellow climbing shoes on the morning of June 15, 2017. Email me if you think they are yours.
---- yomama 360 (at) hot mail dot com --- (take out all the spaces of course)

I also lost a walkie talkie radio the same day.

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