|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]|
|FA:||Gary Hicks & Mark Thomas, September 1986|
|Submitted By:||Alam on May 24, 2010 with updates from Gary Lee Hicks|
|Comments on Sinsemilla Shake - P3 (a.k.a. Green Snake - P2)||Add Comment|
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By Gary Lee Hicks
Aug 8, 2016
I was just browsing through the Gemstone area climbs and saw a climb I wasn't familiar with called "Green Snake"..... turns out it is Pitch Three of a climb I did with Mark Thomas in the late 1980-s called "Sinsemilla Shake" which begins off the top of the block left of Seamingly Hard.
Pitch One of Sinsemilla Shake starts off the middle of the block and clips a 3/8-s inch bolt a few feet above. Climbing past the bolt was the crux which on the 1st ascent had crumbly crystals underfoot and it took me three attempts to climb on through with no other pro to the ledge above. I rated it to be 5.12 R as the section above the bolt is unprotected and perhaps 5.10. A fall would be pretty exciting as you'd probably slam into the top of the block,,, or worse yet,,, cram yourself into the cave between the block and the face. The pitch ends at an old 1/4 inch bolt (unless it's since been replaced) that we incorporated into the climb as it made little sense anyone had placed it there.
John and Jessica Duran came along a few weeks later and John also took three falls before leading past the crux bolt. He rated the crux at 5.11 d ... but Mark and I had already climbed P1 at least one or two more times thus cleaning up the crumblies a bit as we went on to work on Pitch Three (aka "Green Snake").
Much later I met someone who claimed he and his brother had taken wire brushes to the crux holds of P1 which is something I have never done to any of my routes.
Pitch Two scrambles left up the diagonal ledge(?) to some large blocks then up a couple of short cracks to a stance near a horn of rock. Unfortunately, the beautiful tip of the horn has long since been trundled. The human erosion I have witnessed since first climbing Gemstone has been heartbreaking !!!
Pitch Three leads up the shallow left-facing corner using small wired nuts for protection; be sure to runner these so rope drag doesn't flip them out!!! This section could be considered "run out".
Follow the seam/corner until it turns left and becomes a small overhang. Again, the protection is thin and difficult to get. It's some twenty plus years since we did this climb, but I think I recall opposing nuts for fairly good anchors to protect climbing over the bulge at 5.10 b.
The entire climb was done from the ground up with protection placed on lead and no hangs except for the three falls I took at the start of the climb. Mark and I came back to continue working out the last pitch and we did the start (5.11d or 5.12a) with no falls or hangs. No other hangs or pulls on protection were taken.