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Green Savior 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Baxter, Tom Taber, 1968
Season: Only open from Mid-July t
Page Views: 5,189
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on Jan 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. MORE INFO >>>


Green Savior was supposedly named for a small tree that saved Tom Taber's bacon when he took a whipper off the route during the FA. The "savior" is gone now, but the route is a classic!

You start over in the mid-section of the mountain, below a big chimney system (see pics) that identifies the fourth pitch of the route.

P1) Climb a brushy corner system on the left side of a buttress to a belay just short of a "window" through the rock. Move the belay to the other side of the "window" to start the second pitch.

P2) Climb up corners to a really nice 5.5 crescent shaped crack that leads up to Comfort Ledge, a big sloping ledge system below the routes offwidth crux pitch.

P3) The business! Get into the slot and chimney up to the offwidth in the bulge. What makes this only 5.8 is all the great handholds here and there that get you through the wide without having to resort to classic offwidth techniques. Once above the slot, continue up to a small stance above (15 feet or so) and belay.

P4) The big chimney above. Some awkward climbing puts you in the oblique chimney. Pro goes in the back. Continue in this until you exit the chimney and then follow corners above to the top. Getting to the actual top of the rock has always seemed rather difficult to me, but pick the easiest line.


Standard Rack up to #4 Camalot. If you want a little extra, you can bring a #4.5 Camalot, but no need to bring the #5.

Photos of Green Savior Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view right after the "window". The d...
BETA PHOTO: The view right after the "window". The d...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike on "Crisco Way", a fun variation to...
Mike on "Crisco Way", a fun variation to...

Comments on Green Savior Add Comment
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By Tradiban
Oct 25, 2012

Belaying just post the "window" a 70m took this all the way to nice belay ledge just below the top.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 3, 2013

This felt harder than anything on Candyland.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Dec 9, 2015

If you don't like unprotected chimney (like me), then heed Bill Cramer's advice and bring the wide gear! We were very happy to have both the #4 and the #6 (got walked delightfully up one of the chimney sections and used appreciatively elsewhere). Now I understand why people wear knee pads! A great route and the Crisco variation is a good way to go. I imagine the "hardness" factor depends on how comfortable/good you are with off width and chimney. Was just what we expected with the Cramer guide and the Rock Climbing AZ book description. Would do this route again!
By Mark Force
From: Ashland, Oregon
Apr 25, 2017

Green Savior is an immersion in that difficult to grade, but know it when you climb it, experience of stoutness that some people refer to as "blue collar" climbing. Include the direct start and Crisco Way for the full effect!
By GabrielKoybz
From: Brooklyn
Sep 10, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

potentially suicide or at least a pants soiler if 5.8 is near your limit.
crisco is the way to go

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