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East Ironing Board
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Velvet Elvis S 

Green Room 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Larry Harris & possibly Tony Karzen, and Ken, c.1987? Curt Fry?
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Aug 16, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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  • Description 

    This route is not listed in Richard Rossiter's "Rock Climbing the Flatirons," [but someone provided a name & FA]. However, both my partner and I felt that it was hard, but short, 5.11.

    The climb is located on the right wall of an obvious cleft/chimney that is a ways downhill (south) from the Velvet Elvis area. Richard Rossiter marks this as a "tunnel" on one of his topos for the Ironing Boards area.

    It is easy to stem up this route using the opposite wall for three of the four clips, but no doubt the route is meant to be done without the aid of the other wall. Either way, however, the crux comes immediately after the third bolt, so you can't "cheat" through that. The climbing is mostly hard moves on small but positive holds up a gradually overhanging face.

    Protection 

    Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.


    Comments on Green Room Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    3 days ago
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    CONDITION REPORT 
    The anchors are so loose that the right bolts can be spun by finger tips with very little resistance (not the nut, the BOLT) and would easily funk out. You would not lean out on it, for sure. It might pull out pretty easily.
    The left bolt is a rusted to crap 3/8" plated, seems OK for now, but given the one on the right, and what an "interesting" rap this is if you come off of the South Face, well... it should probably be replaced, as it tends to be loaded outwards in the transition to hang below it if you have topped out. I suspect you could re-use the same hole on the left one if you redrilled with a 1/2".

    Also- the set up is presently 2 std bolt hangers with 2 Rapid Links. If they are replaced, some chain would probably be helpful since this is also the rap (approached from above) after doing the South Face of the E. Ironing Board.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 18, 2003
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    Decent route, not entirely positive- one of those routes for which you wish you'd tried if 'fresh'.

    One star only because it is too short to be really good, though what was there was OK.

    Maybe I was just tired and beat up, but it felt harder than most of the 11s and a few of the 12s I've done lately. That said, my partner and I had been discussing if we were too tierd to get on anything else just before this route and may be overstating its difficulty.

    Anchor up top needs new webbing. I was out again, sorry.
    By Craig Miller
    Nov 29, 2008

    I believe the FA was by Larry Harris and possibly Tony Karzen, and Ken, circa 1987.
    By Larry Harris
    Aug 28, 2011

    I think Curt Fry put this one up, but not sure.
    By tony karzen
    Apr 16, 2012

    Larry got FA with Kent right after. As I remember it I got first RP though... correct me if I'm wrong on that, Larry... unless that was another route I'm thinking of....