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Green Panther 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: FFA Peter Beal, bolted by Mark Rolofson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,507
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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  • Description 

    This is the rightmost sport route on the Stars and Stripes Wall. It is steep, complicated, and fun. The rock is a little crumbly, but it should clean up.


    7 bolts.

    Comments on Green Panther Add Comment
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    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    May 5, 2004

    (pasted in from a comment by Dave Rivers) While we're pissin', I'd like to piss in the living room. Hank, I have your new 13a for you. It's Green Panther on Eagle Rock (equipped Rolofson, FFA Beal). IMO this route is soft. I worked it sporadically in the Fall of 2000 with some friends. My hardest redpoint at the time was Piles of Trials which I did that Fall. I had 3-4 one fall or hang attempts before school and a new career pulled me away from chasing the grades. I felt it might be 12c/d for me. I'm 6'2" with a positive ape index so that the "crux" throw was a subtle hip kip and deadpoint for me whereas my shorter but stronger friends had to full-on dyno. They redpointed the climb and also felt it soft for 13a ( and they tend to downgrade less than I). (end of paste)

    My rating for this route is based solely on the fact that it took a few tries over two days, which is about average for me on most easy to mid-13 routes. If it feels soft for the grade, so be it. There are plenty of other options for harder climbing in Boulder Canyon.
    By D. Rivers
    May 5, 2004

    Peter- Sorry if I offended you. I was attempting to take the piss out of all of us including myself. Ratings are a fickle game, even with consensus, we really only have our own fleeting experience of a route to judge it by. GP is an engaging and challenging route. It is also height-dependent, being easier for us lanky folks and more challenging for shorter ones. I defintely plan to go back for the RP when Eagle opens again ( and I get in shape!). David
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    May 5, 2004

    Sorry if I sounded offended, but I was just explaining my rationale for grading. I suppose sometimes I can sound too serious when posting on this site. I'm psyched you like the route. BTW, I read a comment about gluing on another route where the hold fell off. Green Panther had a toaster/TV-sized block "glued" in place which took me 2 minutes with a nut tool to detach. Pretty scary stuff. It made quite an impact lower down on the access ramp.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 19, 2004

    Great route. Too bad it's so short. Has a bomber knee bar no hand rest between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Very soft for the grade (I don't think it's any harder than 12c)
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 24, 2004
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Great route -- maybe a bit soft even by Boulder Canyon standards; has a harder single move than its neighboring route (Buddha Belly), but not nearly as sustained.
    By ac
    Jul 19, 2005

    I would say this is bouldery route is harder than 12c. I didn't redpoint the route, so I can't be certain of the grade yet, but my impression from 2 tries is that its harder than Flying Beast, another bouldery BoCan route.

    Speaking of glued holds, the glued horn just over the lip of the overhang is not long for this world. When that goes, this route will almost certainly be at least 13a.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Dec 11, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    A great route and definitely not as hard as "Buddha Belly", but I have to say I find it very much .13a. Quite sustained with the crux past the 4th & 5th bolts.

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