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Green Mile 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 3,761
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Aug 16, 2007

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nicole on the lower tricky stuff


Left of Scene of the Crime and Juicy Fingers there is a very inviting finger crack on a blank face. Climb a few moves in the crack (2 bolts) and mantel onto an easy rest ledge, then climb a blunt arete past three more well placed bolts until it is easy to scramble to the anchors at the top. It seems like the anchors are placed 3 or 4 feet higher than necessary, however this is to access a second pitch or the route Panama Hat (5.9 but I have not been on it and will not try to give any details about it.) This is a fun route to warm up, end the day, or tick another 5.9 when you are in the area.


Left of and perpendicular to Scene of the Crime


7 bolts, the first one may be reached from the ground (I'm only 5'10")

Photos of Green Mile Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Suggest using a stick clip on the first
Suggest using a stick clip on the first
Rock Climbing Photo: Akira putting the knee in Rumney.
Akira putting the knee in Rumney.
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up the awesome pockets
Working up the awesome pockets
Rock Climbing Photo: eric down low
eric down low
Rock Climbing Photo: eric at the crux
eric at the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole on the upper cruxy stuff
nicole on the upper cruxy stuff
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole
Rock Climbing Photo: green mile route map...
BETA PHOTO: green mile route map...
Rock Climbing Photo: David Eckels sending Green Mile
David Eckels sending Green Mile

Comments on Green Mile Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 8, 2016
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 18, 2007

hey brian, i looked on cause they have kept pretty well up to date on the new routes and retros at rumney... that site has juicy fingers still protected by trad gear and a pin but they do list a new bolted route to the left, The Green Mile 5.9, which would make sense if you thought it wasnt quite 5.10a... what we need is photos and maps, they are oh so helpful... hope this helps... peace out...
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Aug 19, 2007

Sorry about the mix up of route names, I've gotten some more info on the route and I will try to get a decent picture the next time I am out.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 2, 2009

I think its 6 bolts to anchors rather than 5...
By Pat McGinn
Aug 29, 2009

It is possible to lead this with gear, but I would only recommend it if you are comfortable with a long fall potential. I was able to get a nice red c4 in the crack just after the large ledge. The gear is good but there isn't a lot of it.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Sep 24, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Does anyone have any info on the upper pitches above this route? Panama Hat or if there are any others? It looks like a cool section of rock.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 28, 2009

Yes, Panama Hat goes at around 5.9 and is the left climb off the ledge. Beta: once you reach the roof traverse pretty far left before going up then angling back right and up to the anchors. The best approach to PH is up The Anchovy Caper and on to the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. With a 70 m rope and good use of slings you can do this and lower as 1 long pitch.

The next route to the right is Chris Smith's route Flying Squirrel. It goes up at the big corner and out rt onto the arete, ending at the anchors of Panama Hat. I think he said it was an easy or mid 11. Again, approach from Anchovy, or perhaps The Green Mile.

The next one over right is Tim Kemple Sr's fun 11c that goes through a couple roofs, best approached from Scene of the Crime. Just continue up onto the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. Give your self some slack when belaying here so you can move around and see the climber.
Edit: Panama Hat ended up going into the new book as Mister Meaner, just to clear up any confusion
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thanks Mark i will have to check those routes out and post what I can. I will def get on Panama Hat soon.

P.S. are these all sport?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 28, 2009

Yup..all bolt protected.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2009

thanks for the info mark... after that long entry whay not just post the climbs...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 11, 2010

Here's a video of Jakob making quick work of The Green Mile. Make sure to watch in 720p (Mountain Project strips it from the embedded video link)
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
May 29, 2012

The grade of 5.9 can be very fickle at Rumney... I have climbed ones that feel like 5.8, and I have climbed ones that feel like 5.10c. This one is certainly much closer to 5.9 than a lot of other Rumney 9's. When I was trying to break in to 9's at Rumney I found it very difficult. This climb (and Yoda as well) is an excellent first 5.9 lead. That said, I really enjoyed this climb, and I am going to certainly recommend it. The face moves are really cool and it's a different kind of slab climb than the Meadows, or even the slab sections of other climbs around this one. However, I'm not sure how someone shorter than me can reach the first bolt from the ground. I am just shy of 6 feet tall and I was about a foot short of reaching the bolt.
By Devin Krevetski
From: Northfield, VT
Aug 7, 2012

worth doing if it is dry
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route... challenging when wet. I found myself skipping the first bolt by climbing up right of it and clipping the second but if this climb is pushing it for you then maybe stick clip. Or maybe this bolt is easy to reach when it's dry.
By BenjiDa
Oct 6, 2013

Careful! Left bolt at anchor is loose.
By Sergey Shevelev
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 20, 2016

I don't know which bolt can be reached from the ground (maybe that was the case in the past?), I didn't see it. You can clearly see the first bolt in one of the pictures, it is rather high and I would strongly recommend that it is stick clipped as I saw a very nasty fall that the guy from a different party took after we finished this route. They decided to go with a cam which ripped off when he fell and while everything seems to have ended well (at least no obvious damage), the fall was REALLY scary. He fell on his back onto the boulder below the route, then bounced and hit the ground.
By Graham O.
Aug 5, 2016

A rad climb! Does anyone know if it's possible to do this thing on gear??
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 5, 2016

I think I did it on gear but that doesn't mean its a good idea ;)
By Graham O.
Aug 8, 2016

Ha ha nice what did you use for the second half of it?!

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