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Green Mile Direct 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Colin Cox
Page Views: 3,270
Submitted By: Andrew Ryder on May 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Fragile Sandstone: Don't Climb Wet Rock MORE INFO >>>


Brilliant! Packs a punch all the way to the end. Start on the right side of a crack and slap through the roof, heading right with big spans and lots of tension (the left side of the crack is off.) Match the decent edges over the lip, then head back left on a crimp rail to reach a rounded jug. Pull sloping edges through the upper bulge to stand on the rounded jug. Walk it out (carefully - the hillside above is steep and slippery.)

(As noted in the comments, this problem may be climbed more directly and with less difficulty, using left hand slopers just right of the crack. Makes sense, but I don't think it's as fun. Do what makes you happy.)

Alternately, from the far right side of the roof, do the somewhat easier finish straight up from the matched edges, following the crack feature instead of cutting back left ("The Green Mile"), or start low at the right corner of the feature and do a couple hard moves or a tricky dyno to reach a good sloper and join either finish.


Down the canyon between the Trailer Park and Dope Lounge areas, on the right side, look for the radical chalk-covered feature.


Pads (a few are sure nice) and spotters

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Rock Climbing Photo: Green Mile Boulder with variations
Green Mile Boulder with variations

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 15, 2017
By Matt Fowls
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jul 17, 2010
rating: V9 7C

this is one of the best boulder problems that i've ever seen!

highly recommended... very difficult, and requires a lot of figuring (and falling) if it is near your limit.

maybe it's because i did it in the summer--and on a humid day at that--but i feel more inclined to call this one v10.. but what do i know! i'll be interested to see how it feels on a crisp, dry, and cool fall day!
By Colin Cox
Sep 2, 2010

This problem is rad, but was better before the crimp broke down in the start. I'm just bitter cuz I got the F.A. and now I can't do it.
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jun 6, 2011
rating: V9-10 7C+ PG13

Sent Last Sunday. First double digit! Found some good beta for us smaller guys, made it possible for me. Nice route though! Beautiful line! And it gets shade all day so the rock is nice and cool for a burn!
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jun 8, 2011
rating: V9-10 7C+ PG13

This is my beta for this thing. Amazing problem.

By m.qaden.everett
Jun 25, 2011
rating: V8+ 7B+

eliminate = automatically disqualified as 'one of the best' of az. still very fun tho.
By Red
From: Tacoma, Toyota
Jul 8, 2011
rating: V6-7 7A+

I think if this problem is done the way it is described here, you may be using some tunnel vision. There is defiantly other beta for this problem. There is an obvious left hand hold that allows you to stay squared up with the line. Your left hand never needs to touch a hold on the right side. Still not using the rock to the left of the crack either.

Really fun compression bouldering!
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Jul 27, 2011
rating: V9-10 7C+ PG13

I heard that the right hand crimp broke off? Is this true?
By Mark Mellott
Oct 23, 2011

What's the grade of the original Green Mile?
By Colin Cox
Nov 8, 2011

In 2000 it was about v6.
By Robin Daugherty
Jul 17, 2015
rating: V9 7C

Pat, it looks like about half of the crimp rail broke off on the right side; probably means your beta won't work anymore. The problem still goes; I think most will just dead point from the block out left and the good part of the sloping rail right up to the lip (huge swing, highlight of the problem for me).

Also, I think the PG 13 might be a stretch. I fell from the head wall and missed my pad with no injury. With a pad in the right place it's pretty safe.
By dave rosen
Jul 15, 2017
rating: V9- 7C

Super awesome problem! Definitely not a 10, though. Also agree that it's not PG-13. Landing is easily protectable and top out is very reasonable.

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