Green Head Cove Rock Climbing
Approach From Parking Area
Description and History
Green Head Cove was used as a quarry back in the 1800s. I think there was always a large cliff in this area and when removing stone they worked on the less steep rock to the left and right of the main face. When removing the rock it does not appear that they blasted it, it may have been done with pry bars or possible mild explosives leaving the cliff fairly solid with a few unstable areas. This area is right on the water, with available swimming and a small secluded beach. There is potential for bouldering in this area but is a long way to carry a crashpad with only a few problems. There is also a cave that enters the ground at about 25 off the deck and runs approximately 300' into the hillside, its located in the corner of the area and requires award 5.3 climbing/scrambling to get into it.
This area receives sunlight at different times, early morning it hits most of the Left side. Then the sun is on the backside of the cliff all day. Returning in the evening covering the whole area with sun light.
The historic lime quarry at Green Head, Saint John, New Brunswick
The Green Head lime quarry in Saint John, New Brunswick includes remains of built structures and quarries preserving one of the last historic lime kiln operations in southern New Brunswick. The site on Green Head Island is owned by the City of Saint John and includes remains of the quarry, kiln foundations, wharf timbers and foundation walls of homes. During the 1800s the lime business was booming in the region. Abraham Gesner reported as many as nineteen kiln sites in operation in the early 1800s. Quarries are located in the Neoproterozoic Ashburn Formation marble of the Green Head Group. Quarry workings are found at numerous locations, the most prominent are at Green Head Island, near the Reversing Falls Suspension Bridge, at the Pokiok and Snowflake quarries in north Saint John, and east at Torryburn.
The Green Head quarry was operated for many years by Joseph and Frank Armstrong whose lime product was known throughout the Maritimes for its quality. Much of the lime produced at the Armstrong Quarry was used locally. Buildings constructed in Uptown Saint John after the Great Fire of 1877 were mortared using Green Head lime. Joseph Armstrong is noted in newspaper stories of the day as a pioneer in the development of the lime industry which was worth almost $100,000 in export trade by 1889. The quarry operation is a historic reminder of a mining industry that supported southern New Brunswicks economy throughout much of the nineteenth century.
DIANE N. BUHAY1 AND RANDALL F. MILLER2
1,Ward Chipman Library, University of New Brunswick, Saint John, NB, Canada
2,Department of Natural Science, New Brunswick Museum, Saint John, NB Canada
Head towards Milford/Dominion Park, Once on the Green Head Rd heading towards Dominion Park cross a small bridge when you get to a fork stay right on Green Head Rd. There is a trail on the right that is blocked by small boulders, directly across from Angus Street. Park here and walk the trail keeping straight until you can see the power lines; there will be a fork in the road here. Go right to stay out of the swamp. When you get to the power lines go right. Follow the power line until you reach tower #67, a trail appears on the left. Follow this trail for about 300 the trail takes a sharp right, with a half ass trail going straight. Go straight hitting another trail, walk this trail till the top of the cliff. follow the trail to the right when youre at the top of the cliff.
Climbing Season For the New Brunswick area.
Weather station 21.4 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For Green Head Cove
Fabricated for your pleasure 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b North America
: ... : The Main Cliff
This route is basically 'Don't be Jenga Direct'. Same start, but move left around the roof instead of right. A relatively short (but excellent) boulder problem will join you back onto Don't be Jenga just in time for the crux at the top. In my opinion, it's the best sport route in Saint John. Very fun.I am not good at grading, I gave it a 5.12- because its harder then Don't be Jenga (5.11+) but I don't know by how much. please climb it and let me know :)...[more] Browse More Classics in International
View from Greenhead Cove at sunset
BETA PHOTO: Blue= step it up 11c Red=Don't be jenga 11+ Yellow...
Looking at the main face from the back of the area
BETA PHOTO: Milford N.B red- Don't Be Jenga 11d blue-Step It U...
From: New Brunswick Canada
Jun 3, 2011
Good f*ckin work!!
By Ian Lingley
From: Grand Bay-Westfield
Jun 6, 2011
Thanks man, hope to see you there soon.
By Chris Norfolk
From: Fredericton, New Brunswick
Jun 20, 2011
Wow. Excellent work on the development and on the history!