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Claim Jumper Wall
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Green Goblin 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Cable, 1988
Page Views: 1,809
Submitted By: Nathan Scherneck on Jun 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Richard, fighting to continue jamming the crack in...


Climb the obvious flared dihedral right of Claim Jumper. Combines good jams with chimney/off-width technique.


Gear to 4", can use the anchors on One Armed Bandit.

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By Dave Kos
From: Temecula, CA
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun little trad diversion with a very different character from the other climbs on this wall. A little stiff for a Holcomb 5.7 and probably not a good choice for a new 5.7 trad leader. Protection is a bit tricky, but it's all there - just bring some big cams and/or hexes. Useful to have something really big (bigger than #5 camalot) for the bottom section, otherwise the first opportunity for decent pro is about 15' up in a small crack on the right wall of the chimney.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
May 20, 2012

I was a little nervous about the blocks in the last steep section before the anchors. There is a lot of "loose" material, some of which is quite large. It's a matter of time before pieces of it come down and I hope nobody is there when it does.

With that being said, three of us climbed through them today. This is a fun varied route that climbs like a chiminey in the flared dihedral.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Sep 29, 2013

Climbed this on toprope today for a fun diversion from the sport routes around it. I can see where somebody would call the bottom section 5.7, if you were cool with climbing funky, steep, flaring chimneys with bad pro (unless maybe you have a set of big hexes). But this is going to be a shocker for anyone who is at Holcomb expecting 5.7.

The top section is more like what Holcomb has to offer in general, but still, not really. If you're okay with hand and fist jamming, this section of overhanging crack probably goes at 5.8, but if you're not, the platy face holds are infrequent and steep enough that it's more like a 9 or 10.

Long story short, don't be surprised.
By Matt Himmelstein
From: Orange, California
Jul 17, 2016

It is good thing this climb was easy, since the protection is terrible. I placed my first piece at he level of the 3rd bolt of One Armed Bandit and my second at the level of the 6th. I would not recommend this for someone who is leading at the 5.7 or 5.8 level. Bring some big gear.
By Ronald B
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 27, 2016

If you're comfortable chimneying it's not so bad. The first time I attempted this I was terrible at chimneys and couldn't get past the flared dihedral. Came back a couple months later with more chimney experience and it was way easier. Used mostly thin gear except for a #4 halfway up the chimney section and a #2 near the top.

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