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Green Chimney 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: George Bell on Nov 13, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Upper section of Green Crack.

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  • Description 

    This route is called "Green Crack West" in Rossiter, but there are already too many Green Cracks/Corners in the Ironing Boards, so I though "Green Chimney" was unique as well as more descriptive.

    This is a good, easy chimney climb, but the long approach and only 90' length make it hard to justify a trip to climb only it. This climb is on the West side of the West Ironing Board (WIB), and is not easy to locate. Approach either from Bluebell Canyon, or by going up the drainage between the Second and Third Flatirons, then climb a faint trail just west of Jaws to a wooded saddle just west of the summit of the WIB. From here hike south two hundred yards, staying near the WIB until you can locate the chimney. The chimney may be identified by the fact that an even easier (4th class) chimney lies only about 20' right of it. There is no other place on the West side of the WIB with two such easy chimneys close together.

    The chimney itself appears more difficult than it is. Huge bucket holds always seem to appear when they are needed, and the crux is about 20' up getting into the narrowest part of the chimney. From the ridge crest, continue north to the summit, or downclimb or rap the 4th class chimney.


    Standard Flatiron rack.

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    By Roger Linfield
    Nov 2, 2005

    I would recommend the longer approach, via the saddle above Jaws/West Ironing Board. This makes it easy to find the climb - you just scramble down from the saddle, staying close to the rock, and the route pops into view.

    This morning, there was a fixed rope on the 4th class descent chimney. That rope was anchored quite a ways back at the top - it would be difficult to set a sling there and retrieve a doubled rappel rope. In any case, the downclimb is fairly easy and secure. The fixed rope was rather stiff, so it's probably been there for a while.

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