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Zappa Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T 
Beside the Pillar T 
Blood Pulse T 
Calcite Fingers T 
Curve, The T 
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 
Far Right Corner T 
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 
Fork It (HVS) T 
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) T 
Hands to OW T 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Left Leaner T 
Mr. Sheeley T 
Muffin Man (aka Leaning Corner or Moderation) T 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 
OW Corner T 
Point 5 roof T 
Short Dihedral T 
Short, Some Hands T 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 
Uncle Remus (aka Short Corner) T 
Zig-Zag T 
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Hands Roof) T 

Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jim N., FFA: Matt Lisenby?
Season: any
Page Views: 2,065
Submitted By: rob pizem on Mar 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The irony is that I didn't place any 0.75s on the ...

Description 

Protect this with lots of green cams up the perfect dihedral. No rest comes until the dihedral disappears and it becomes a thin crack into a offwidth.

Location 

This is the left-facing dihedral to the left of the pillar route.

Protection 

0.3-2 inch, 6-8 0.5 inch pieces.


Comments on Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Maker, aka Brick Head) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryan K.
From: Palisade, CO
Mar 29, 2012

No photo? WTF?
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 29, 2012

Super Weak. Gaggler.
By rob pizem
Dec 11, 2012

There is now a photo. I hope this helps.
By Sean Nelb
From: Indian Creek
Feb 17, 2016

Just wanted to reiterate that, despite the name, this route takes mostly the #0.5 (purple) Camalot size in the leaning corner, not greens.
By WadeM
From: Golden, Co
Mar 8, 2016

Boulder Problem takes a .75 off the deck and an optional 2 or 3 - Don't blow it though. It would not be fun

Blast .5s (maybe 4-5) till a rest. Climb the easy slot to a thin hands crack with plenty of feet. Real business is the layback
By Traveler
Apr 3, 2016

Greetings again, This route was done a year or two after Zombie Woof and was called Pasta Maker because that is what it did to your arms. The left edge of the crack was very sharp and cut my fingers near my palms. I was not able to free it on the first ascent. I did have to hang. So, it could be said that someone else is entitled to name it. A couple years later, a friend said that Matt Lazenby (spelling) freed it? I was told he called it Brick Head? The original anchor is perhaps another 30 higher on a ledge near the top of the cliff.
Cheers, JN
P.S. Again the anchor is hidden more or less from view.
By michalm
Apr 9, 2017
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

The boulder problem is 11 R. If you fall, you will get hurt. After that, the pitch is very sustained and fully 4 stars. This would be 12 at The Creek and feels harder than some 12- pitches on Moonlight Buttress. Also, this route takes mainly purple C4s which are closer to 1". Green Aliens are 0.5", FYI. The tat is old on one of the newer bolts. The other could use tightening. This pitch is a full 30m to the lower anchors.

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