Greed - Dirty Deed
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roger placing gear at the crux (second and last pi...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This route isn't super classic but is a fun little jaunt. Plus it's a tower. Sort of...
Start up a slightly chossy seam that opens up for a cam placement or two. Gain the big ledge, get a few more cams in, and mantle the horizontal pillar sticking out of the base of the fin proper. Place a nut (take your nut tool to get all of the sand out of the crack), make a move or two, place the red Camalot down and to your right, then make a couple more moves to the top.
Getting to the ledge is 5.6, the mantle is 5.easy, and the rest to the top is 5.easier.
The formation is to the south of Fear and Loathing, along the same ridge. The route starts on the west face at an obvious seam.
I used .4 (purple,) .5 (green), 1 (red), 3 (blue), and 4 (old style purple) Camalots, plus a #5 Stopper. The #4 Camalot wasn't necessary but I had it with me and figured I'd place it. There's a sling and a quicklink around the top of the formation. I'd recommend taking a longer sling (the one I used was tied out of a 9' piece of webbing) so that it can go around some better rock a few inches lower...
BETA PHOTO: The route from the ledge, right before the mantle ...
BETA PHOTO: Here's the formation with the route marked.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Oct 16, 2013
5. easy. fun little "tower" ? a little bit run out and not a lot of pro if your new to the sharp end but doable enough. mandatory if your in the area.