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Greatest Route At Ibex 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Tim Toula, Matt Huntze, 2008
Season: Spring, fall
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: KevinTodd84 on Nov 11, 2013

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Description 

1st pitch 12b.
2nd pitch 11d.

P1: Steep for 7 bolts. At about the 6th bolt you get to a difficult mantle. Near the 9th bolt things really cool off and you can get a good rest. Then it starts up again as you fight for A nice ledge with a 2 bolt quick clip anchor. I'm not sure of the exact bolt count, but it is about 15.

P2: Move right and reach up super high to clip a bolt, then move further right and start climbing in a crack that will quickly bring you back left to your bolt line.

If the first pitch left you as blazingly pumped as it left me, then you may find your self in a very desperate series of slopey holds and weird stances that keep you pumped and make you fight furiously for the next ledge. You do gain a huge ledge under a giant white roof. This is where you would think a 2nd belay station would be. There is not. You could build one if you have brought trad gear(there is no other reason to bring trad gear). You should just continue climbing out the right side of the cave. You can quickly clip 2 bolts on the overhanging corner of the cave. The rope drag is just fine. The nose you have to pull over to get out of the cave is simply, fantastically, desperate. Fight up some easing terrain as you gain the summit. Rap twice.

Location 

This route is to the north of the monstrous Nose Shadow. Look for the first major gulley to the north of Nose Shadow. On the left side of the gully at the top of the cliff you will see 2 giant white overhangs, one right on top of the other. The greatest route at the ibex climbs starts in the shaded gully and climbs to the upper of the 2 white overhangs. The route starts on a huge ledge way up in the gully. You have to do a bit of bushwhacking to get there. As you get further up the gully I found it easiest to start walking up the slab to the right and then zig-zagg back left. Me and my dog made it up this gully together. If you have a big dog or a clumsy dog you should leave them lower on the hillside. There is actually a set of anchors at the top of the gulley so that you can rap back down.(Not sure why?). We didn't use them but maybe if there was snow on the ground or something you would rap instead of walking down the gully.

Protection 

The current guide is all wrong about this route. It is 2 pitches(not 3) and all you need is qucikdraws(no gear needed). I followed the guidebook and brought a rack of cams with me. The 10 lbs of gear was never used and only served to make me more pumped carrying it all.
You need about 18 draws. This route is well bolted.


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By KevinTodd84
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 11, 2013

Oh yea, forgot to mention. This route is really good. If you are looking to do some single pitch 5.12 then come just for the first pitch. The 2nd pitch is really special too and it would be a shame to miss.

Also this route gets shade all day. Perfect way to stay cool while you are waiting for the rest of the walls or boulders to get shade on hot days.

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