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Turkey Rock
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Glen's Pancake T,TR 
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Great White Crime T 
In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 
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Wild Fire T 

Great White Crime 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Bryan Becker 1977
Page Views: 6,360
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on May 30, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (104)
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Tina enjoying the last lap of the day.


Located on the south face of Turkey Rock, this route starts to the right of the bolted arete (In Style, Out of Fashion). This is in the lowpoint of the right side of the rock. Similar climbing to that of Vanishing Point with good fingers in the seams and feet where you need them. Start up incipient cracks until a step left is necessary. Reach for the handcrack, and it's over. It is 70' to a chain anchor.


TCUs, RPs, and #2 Camalot for the upper hand crack.

Photos of Great White Crime Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Sinner looking for pro on May 17, 2008.
Adam Sinner looking for pro on May 17, 2008.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Samuelson, c. 1995.
Steve Samuelson, c. 1995.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stepping left to the handcrack after the crux.
Stepping left to the handcrack after the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route follows the prominant crack in the cente...
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the prominant crack in the cente...

Comments on Great White Crime Add Comment
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Jul 12, 2004

A larger RP will protect the crux very well, and a slightly larger nut can back this up a couple feet below. Very good climbing, but the difficulty is not sustained. Lots of moves in the 10 range with maybe 2 moves at easier 11.
By Greaser
Sep 23, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I have fond memories of climbing this. Great route. To bad it was not a lot longer.

Is Turkey Rocks open now?
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought this was easier than VANISHING POINT. Protection is better than it looks from the ground. The purple Metolius TCU is your friend!
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a great route with good pro as long as you have small cams. Nice balancy moves through the crux, one of the best short climbs I've done in the Platte.
By chad michael davis
Aug 14, 2006

You can lead this climb with stoppers only and have gear over your head for nearly every move. The crux in particular, where the climbing is thinnest, takes perfect bottleneck wires.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bryan told me it was named this because of the amount of chalk they used. They were mortified by the white mess they had made. Anyhow another example of how priorities have changed in the climbing world. It's a great pitch but it's not 5.11.
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2009

This climb is fun - short but sweet - and it absolutely eats nuts and small cams. There are lots of rests/stances to place gear.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 9, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a great climb. It doesn't involve any real crack climbing except at the very end, which therefore fits my style perfectly. There are some great finger locks right before the crux, but sport climbers can handle those easily.

I onsighted R.'s Crack right after I did this climb, and I think I can fairly say there is no way this is an 11b. This climb was more difficult during the hard parts, but I got the rp on my second try, and I am no where near a 5.11 trad climber.
By Billy Danger
From: Asheville, NC
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

One of my favorites! I placed a bomber #2 C4 before the crux sequence. It was just a little below my feet when I grabbed the cool crystal thingy.

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