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Great Pumpkin 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, Bud Couch, 7-1969.
Page Views: 5,357
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 13, 2007

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A super safe belay on "Great Pumpkin". P...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This excellent route is to the right of "Roseanne". The climbing is mostly easy with some exciting run-outs and routefinding.

Climb easy face to a ledge (5.4).

Climb up past a short left facing corner, then past a bolt, then up and right to a belay (5.8).

Climb up to a 5.8 lieback, which leads to a belay.

A left facing corner leads to another ledge (5.7).

From the right end of the ledge, climb 5.8 to a left facing corner, which leads to a belay with two bolts.

A 5.8 pitch leads past two bolts to a belay from three bolts.

Another 5.8 pitch leads past one bolt to the walk off.


Standard rack.

Photos of Great Pumpkin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Great Pumpkin". Photo by Blitzo.
"Great Pumpkin". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climbers on the Great Pumpkin.
Unknown climbers on the Great Pumpkin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out
Topping out
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay ,
Belay ,
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2, I think
pitch 2, I think
Rock Climbing Photo: Great Pumpkin, upper pitch
Great Pumpkin, upper pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 1
pitch 1

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By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Aug 19, 2009

Link it up in 4 pitches w/ a 60m.
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

How this route is rated so high baffles me. Supertopo guidebook talks about climbing immaculate perfect granite and so on regarding Great Pumpkin. This route offers far from that, highlighting a massive hollow flake that should not be protected with pro due to the unpredictability that it would blow off the wall, changing rock quality top to bottom and and extreme run outs. I would gladly walk off fairview for any other climb.
By Timbo Stillinger
Jul 22, 2013

Can be climbed in 3 pitches with a 70m.

From bolted belay at the top of P1 you can rope stretch to the Bolted Belay at the top of the pitch that starts off the ledge with the tree. (link p2 & p3) Might need to use long slings for the bolt anchors to milk that extra foot of stretch out of the rope. Rope drag is not that bad, be sure to protect for the follower mantling onto the ledge. If they unclip from the tree rap before mantling and you have no pro until the bolt at the other end of the ledge, they face a nasty penji should they blow the mantle.
By -robin-
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

What a spectacular route, every pitch offers a little spice and is consistently interesting. Easily one of my favorite routes at the grade! We did it in four pitches with a 70m.
By Jeffrey Lieberman
Jul 9, 2014

This route is a classic line by Mr. Kamps. It's runout...but if you climb well and have the head..go for it. Always fun.
By Ed Henicle
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Sep 11, 2015

Classic face climb. If you're a bold face climber, you'll love it. For me - well - I think there are 5.8+ moves WAY past your last bolt - very scary - my hats off to Kamps and anyone else who can lead those upper pitches.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Dec 5, 2015

This route should be called the Great Jack O'Lantern because it certainly is a little spooky. Scariest point is looking up at it from the ground yet maintains the stress when your on it, requires a solid head and comfort on run out slab climbing. Easy climbing for its grade, yet most likely rated what it is due to the seriousness of the runouts. Type one, type two fun, you decide!
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 15, 2016

Let me point out to those unfamiliar with So Cal climbing history. This route was put up by TWO face masters, Kamps and Bud '"Ivan" Couch, who put up Valhalla (.11a) at Suicide, the route one had to lead to become a Stonemaster.

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