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Great Northern Slab
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Great Northern Slab 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Paul Guimarin, Philip Leatherman
Page Views: 15,468
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (238)
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Bobby finishing up the second (and best) pitch.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


A fun outing, this route tends to be pretty popular. P1 (5.2) Start in the corner to the left of the flat ledge with the 10c toprope problem. Climb rightward up a ramp and through some bushes, then straight up an easy ramp to two very large (i.e. 1-inch diameter) bolts. P2 (5.7) Climb up the corner. The 5.7 move is the somewhat awkward move to gain a sloping ledge. Continue up the crack system on the left or the right (technically Pisces), both 5.6, to a belay/rappel station with an overcomplicated set of chains. P3 (5.7+) Either climb up a ramp left and continue up to the top, or go right up another ramp and climb a slabby face to the top. Descent: Rap the route. With 2 60-m ropes, you can reach the ground from the rap station at the top of the second pitch.


A standard trad rack to 3" will suffice, with lots of runners to help reduce rope drag. All the belays are bolted.

Photos of Great Northern Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of first 2 pitches of Great Northern Slab rou...
BETA PHOTO: View of first 2 pitches of Great Northern Slab rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: ice in some parts made it not a 5.2
ice in some parts made it not a 5.2
Rock Climbing Photo: GNS
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up a fun 2nd pitch
Looking up a fun 2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: My first free solo!
My first free solo!
Rock Climbing Photo: starting the first pitch 5.2 to huge bolts
starting the first pitch 5.2 to huge bolts
Rock Climbing Photo: Wil I Am topping out on TGNS
Wil I Am topping out on TGNS
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber about half way up the Great Northern Sla...
BETA PHOTO: A climber about half way up the Great Northern Sla...

Comments on Great Northern Slab Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 7, 2017
By Casey Jones
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 9, 2006

Seemed a lot easier than 5.7+ to me. Eats up stoppers. Gets really crowded!!!
By Blitzo
Sep 13, 2006

A good climb.
By Matias Francis
Aug 26, 2013

My very first trad/multipitch climb.. great first one... to me it had a lot of good features. 2 cruxes, crack some facing climbing on the 3rd pitch. the grade to me was a little soft felt like 5.8
By Dance Party
From: Seattle, Wa
Sep 1, 2013

Anyone know the details of the bolted line that runs up the arete on the far (climbers) left of the 3rd pitch? Climbed it today instead of the crack to the right that i've done in the past. Felt a bit harder and was really fun.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Aug 24, 2015

I'm not sure what the 2 bolt next to the arete on P3 is either, but it was fun. Actual slab moves w/o positive hands, I think it would get a 7 at darrington.
By Serge Smirnov
May 22, 2016

4" cam for P2 crux
By Daniel Bookless
From: Portland, OR
Aug 20, 2016

Pitch one: 5.2??? More like 5.4...D

In regard to protecting the crux on pitch 2 a #4 would be convient; but there's a halfway decent spot to plug a #1 just below where the 4 might go (in a crack within the larger crack)
By Sam Beane
Jan 3, 2017

Does anyone know what the finger crack to the right of the start of the great northern slab is rated/called?
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jan 3, 2017

Just off the ground, there is a thin crack in a corner, maybe 15' long. If this is what you are referring to, then I don't think it has a name. It is about 10d though.
By Sam Beane
Jan 3, 2017

Jon Nelson, yes that it was I was referring to, thanks
By derekpearson Pearson
Jan 4, 2017

Sandy Corner route # 85 in the clint guide
By Suman Mulumudi
From: Snohomish, WA
Jul 15, 2017

As Serge said, a 4" for the crux of P2 is quite helpful.
By travis dean
Sep 7, 2017

This area and all closely related routes was a clustered mess the repelling was all from same anchors and the traffic of the routes made it even worse

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