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Great North Woods Region

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Dixville Notch 
Mount Forist 
North Bald Cap  
North Percy Peak 
Outlook, The 
Roger's Ledge 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

River Run
Easy riding down by the river Near Lyndonville, Vermont
Kingdom Trails: Darling Hill Loop
A nice introduction to the Kingdom Trails Darling Hill side in East Burke. Near Lyndonville, Vermont
White School
A nice, scenic trail following the Passumpsic River towards town. Near Lyndonville, Vermont
J-Bar
A fast, semi-technical downhill through the woods on Burke Mountain. Near Lyndonville, Vermont
Kingdom Trails: Mountainside Loop
A great loop on the mountainside of the Kingdom Trails with fantastic downhills and big climbing. Near Lyndonville, Vermont
Moose Alley
An awesome downhill that takes you from the mountain-side to the White School area of Kingdom Trails Near Lyndonville, Vermont
From MP's sister site:

Great North Woods Region Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,443'
Location: 44.65303, -71.30132 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,842
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Aug 24, 2015
Forecast:
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Dixville Notch, Looking East

Description 

Areas in the Great North Woods region - The northern part of the state, beyond the Presidential Range

Getting There 

Rock Climbing Photo: Great North Woods original map from visitnh.gov/in...
Great North Woods
original map from visitnh.gov/information/about-...

See directions to the individual areas

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.9 miles from here

53 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',15],['5.8',9],['5.9',9],['5.10',7],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Great North Woods Region

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Great North Woods Region:
South West Face   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 700'   North Percy Peak
Subtle like Bob Ross   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Mount Forist : 2. South End
Madigan   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 200'   Mount Forist : 3. Madigan Area
Lichen It   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Mount Forist : 6. The Arete Area
Berliner (Ich Ben Ein Berliner)    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Mount Forist : 4. Middle Forist Area
October Sundae   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches   North Bald Cap : a_Main Slab Area
Ingy's Ice Cream   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches   North Bald Cap : a_Main Slab Area
Road North Start to Ingy's Ice Cream to "Orgasmo Slab"    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches   North Bald Cap : a_Main Slab Area
Half Blind and Fully Baked   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad   Mount Forist : 2. South End
The Green Mile   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Mount Forist : 4. Middle Forist Area
Middle Forist (Climb)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Mount Forist : 4. Middle Forist Area
Business Trip   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   Mount Forist : 6. The Arete Area
Hostile Territory   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Mount Forist : 4. Middle Forist Area
Forist Grump   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Mount Forist : 3. Madigan Area
Mantle Peace   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Mount Forist : 4. Middle Forist Area
Birthday Boy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Mount Forist : 6. The Arete Area
Skate-y Cat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Mount Forist : 4. Middle Forist Area
Mancation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   North Bald Cap : e_Lost Boys Area
Flying Moose Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 110'   North Bald Cap : e_Lost Boys Area
Anniversary Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 95'   North Bald Cap : e_Lost Boys Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Great North Woods Region

Featured Route For Great North Woods Region
Rock Climbing Photo: October Sundae & "Direct"

October Sundae 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  New Hampshire : Great North Woods Region : ... : a_Main Slab Area
Be aware that the Rap Tree used for the 2nd-to-last Rap (just beneath the big overhang) has toppled over and is no longer usable. It fell over with less than 50 lbs force when I sat on its lower trunk 8/19/16. Slings have been removed, lest someone grab them. The whole tree sits on the ledge with less than 10% of its (rotted) roots in the dirt. Use the double-bolt anchor 25-30 ft to "skier's/viewer's left on the slab. (scramble down, then up to the bolts, Clas...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Great North Woods Region Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Devil's Slide, Stark, NH (see COMMENTs)
BETA PHOTO: Devil's Slide, Stark, NH (see COMMENTs)

Comments on Great North Woods Region Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Nov 20, 2015
Does anybody out there have any information on the routes that have "recently" been bolted on Devil's Slide, above the town of Stark? Out for a walk today and saw about 7 bolted lines and a handful of anchors midway up. I grew up in town and started technical climbing once I had left, so in the back of my mind I had always wondered about the rock, which honestly had always and still does, look like a choss pile. Love to hear some beta if anyone has some though. Thanks.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 20, 2015
You should try to talk to Jon Sykes and Scott Lovell. On NEClimbs there was mention of some routes there. It does sound like a big choss heap, but maybe with a bunch a crowbarring there might be something good underneath.
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Nov 20, 2015
Thanks for the info. Seemed to point me in the right direction.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 20, 2015
i looked at Devils several times and did nothing. IMO worthless

Good luck getting to Sycho via email

There is another crag up there,,very good and hideous approach..I say nothing
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Nov 22, 2015
Is there any rock climbing at Reflection Crag / Stevens Point in Gorham?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 23, 2015
J--check with peter lewis through MP...if there's anything , he will know
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Feb 5, 2016
A long, long time ago on a rainy "AMC Cannon" weekend, us soggy climbers drove up to Stark. I have always remembered what we saw as a low-angle, mossy slab, but have never been able to find it again...my memory did NOT agree with what Devil's Slide looked like (see photo).

Last weekend was in the area again and stopped to look at Devil's Slide. One of the locals who lived near the slide was outside so I asked him if there was another, lower-angled slide/slab in the area. He said "No".

He also said his son was a rock climber (so I figured he knew at least something about climbing). He said "Some climbers were here and did a lot of rock removal, climbed but didn't make the top." He pointed to the left side of the cliff, just right of a top gully, which looked the cleanest to me. (see photo)
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 8, 2016
Of course there's the "other" crag outside berlin (not Florist) but I don't know about it..... except for the cool roof crack and the nice rock and....
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 10, 2016
I think I was just reading about that cliff in Bayard's blog (lots of good reading); Square Mountain, NW of Berlin. It looks great. I would love to have more information.
cathedralmountainguides.com/20...

Map It looks like a lot of rock!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 10, 2016
A nice side shot of Square Mountain

from vftt.org/forums/showthread.php...

It looks like there is another Greens, Greens Ledge, just east of Square, John! I think I should write a 'Climber's Guide To All the Greens, Square and Owls Cliffs of NH' some time to get them all straight.

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