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Southwest Corner
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Bat Shit Crazy T 
Birthday Pickle T 
Bolder Problem in Space (free) T 
Boulder Problem in the Sky T 
Golden Showers T 
Great Gig in the Sky T 
Hanging Gardens T 
Hard Up for Cracks T 
Lopper, The T 
S.O.S. T 
Shithouse Rat T 
Under the Big-Top T 
Vaporizer, The T 
White Powder! T 

Great Gig in the Sky 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
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Submitted By: nbrown on Jan 2, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thanks to Tom for rekindling my interest in this wall. Hands down one of the wildest lines of its kind in the area, and very reminiscent of the Fire Wall routes of Moore's Wall.
P-1
Climb the easy starting corner of Boulder Problem in the Sky to the ledge ~40' up and belay on gear. 5.7

P-2
Climb the main Boulder Problem corner about 30' before moving out right on big holds to a weakness trending right. Climb this to a short lieback that turns into an undercling. Follow this feature rightward to a water streak (crux) and move up on powerful underclings and a delicate sidepull (careful pulling on this key hold). A key foot out left makes clipping the bolt in the stemming corner easy. Follow this corner to a stance and belay at bolts. 5.12. See topo for gear beta. Note: You cannot get down from this belay with anything less than a 70m rope.

P-3
Follow the stellar corner up to merge into the free variation finish to Bolder Problem in Space. 5.11b/c

Location 

Climbs the amazing steep wall right of Boulder Problem in the Sky

Protection 

Mostly bolts on crux pitch. Std rack for pitch 1 and 3.


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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Apr 27, 2017

The jaw-dropping exposure on this climb is beyond memorable! This should be on every 5.12 trad climbers list. Non-stop action and aesthetic movement from start to finish will keep you engaged and entertained. Go find out!

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