REI Community
End Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be All, End All T 
Cap'm Pissgums T 
Days of Future Passed T 
Endgame T 
Great Gig in the Sky T 
Jimmywacky T,S 
Magnus Veritas T,S 
Poetry in Motion T 
Son of Gums T 
Uncarved Block T 
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 
Welcome to the Machine T,S 

Great Gig in the Sky 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, Jay Ladin
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: Austin Sobotka on Jan 4, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The thank-God chickenhead on pitch two

Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another Cochise classic brought back from the dead. A brilliant route that certainly deserves traffic, especially now that all of the hardware has been upgraded. Expect a healthy dose of moderately to extremely run-out climbing on the easier sections (Bob Kerry gives the route a safety rating of "very "R""). That being said, the hard climbing is all reasonably well protected.

P1: Start in the same crack as for Jimmywacky, but instead of moving left to the bolt continue straight up on slightly overhanging plates to a two bolt belay (the bolts for the belay are separated vertically by about 4', so plan accordingly).

P2: Clip the higher of the two belay bolts for your first piece and continue up increasingly difficult terrain past another bolt until you finally reach the giant chickenhead about 30' off the belay. Continue up, passing one more bolt, to a comfy two bolt belay. This is the same belay as for Endgame and Jimmywacky.

P3: Clip the bolt above and to the left of the belay (part of the original belay) and continue up the blunt arete for about 70' of unprotected climbing (easy terrain) until reaching a right-angling crack that accepts 2-3" pieces. Follow the crack to a ledge then traverse directly right to a three bolt belay. This pitch might actually be x. Legend has it that the first ascensionists opted to not place any bolts on this pitch because they were in a hurry to get to a Beanfest!

From here it is possible to rap down Magnas veritas with two 50m ropes. Otherwise continue up on a pitch of your choice and descend via the standard End Pinnacle rap route.

Protection 

Single rack to 4", good assortment of stoppers, lots of shoulder-length slings.


Photos of Great Gig in the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A print of unknown climbers on the first pitch is ...
A print of unknown climbers on the first pitch is ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one
Pitch one

Comments on Great Gig in the Sky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 4, 2016

Congrats to Austin for his onsight ascent of all three pitches 12/31/15. A great way to end the year!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About