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Great Expectations 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. Holzman, N. Morrel, B. D'Antonio
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Will L. on Apr 23, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Climb past two bolts to the crux at the third bolt.

Location 

first bolted route to the right of flamer

Protection 

3 bolts, possible gear placement after the third bolt


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By kenr
Jun 13, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The crux is roughly straight up from the 3rd (top) bolt. Even though the two-bolt anchor is well to the right (N) of the 3rd bolt.

Crux move is likely much harder for climbers much less tall than 5ft8inch with normal reach.

Location: Bolted line to the right of the tree stump which is about 4 feet right of a live tree. At least 10 feet left of the arete (with two bolts) and chimney.
By Dave
Oct 11, 2017

The anchor is located just above the third bolt, around the corner on the right. It felt pretty chill, you shouldn't need extra gear.

If you would like to TR this route, I'd suggest setting up some long slings on the bolts, since there can be some rope drag coming around the corner there.

Kenr was right. Being 5'7" made the move at the third bolt maybe a little harder than 10a.

Overall fun route with cool moves.

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