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Great Expectations 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: Joe Lee on Nov 18, 2007

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This is a cool climb and definitely worth doing at least once. If you enjoy wide stuff, this climb is for you.

P1 Starts with a flaring chimney/slot. The climb becomes more sporty with a technical crux in the middle. Then finish up a tight chimney with a hollow flake.

P2 Follow the roof out right. Make some some solid stemming moves up a very short corner. Then make a sporty exit right. IF you want to keep the grade at 5.8, you can finish left.


Approach as for Steve's Arete. Once past Steve's Arete, continue to drop down the hillside, bearing left at each drop off. There is no formal trail. Facing down hill, we dropped down the left flank of Nurd Rock. If only doing Great Expectations, I would leave your packs at the summit, and continue down with light approach shoes.

Caution. The soil is very loose and it is easy to dislodge large rocks.


Bring a full rack from fingers to fist/offwidth. Build a gear anchor on a stance about 10 feet below the roof. There are two bolts at the summit.

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