REI Community
Shanahan Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beau! T 
Better Offer T 
East Face - North Rib of the Eastern Crag T 
East Face - Northern Shanahan Slab T 
East Face of the Eastern Crag (South) T 
Great Expectations T 
Identity Theft T 
In Broad Daylight T 
Leonine T 
Prune Face T 
South Face T 
Southeast Ridge T 
Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 
Thieves In the Temple T 
Vague Jug Line T 
When It's Right T 
Unsorted Routes:

Great Expectations 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Julie Garrison, Dougald MacDonald
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Mar 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    With some traffic this will become a much better route, but for now it's a bit .... adventurous. This route climbs the pretty huecoed face just left of Identity Theft (the line marked in Rossiter's guide as the "South Face"). Both pitches are 5.8/5.9.

    P1. Start in an obvious left-facing corner and climb easily to the roof, then do cool moves left under the roof and stand up at the far end. Angle left across huecos and neat underclings (Tri-Cams useful for pro), then up to easier ground on a faint prow. From here, either keep going a few feet left into a nice left-facing corner (easier and better protected), or tackle the steep wall above via faint double cracks (good climbing but the cracks are discontinuous, a bit dirty and difficult to protect). Belay at a small ledge by a large old nest.

    Pitch 2: Angle right over an easy bulge to a stance, then climb steep rock via discontinuous double cracks to reach the top. Adequate but not great pro. (As with the first pitch, the pro will improve if the cracks get more traffic.)

    Descent: Downclimb about 75 feet of low 5th class to a ledge with a rap anchor (125-foot rappel), or climb to the summit.

    Protection 

    Standard rack plus Tri-Cams.


    Comments on Great Expectations Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 9, 2017
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    This climb is a bit scruffy and does wander a bit. I felt it was more like 5.9, but I suppose that may be dependent upon your exact path and what holds you are willing to chance using well above gear.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About