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Great Expectations 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson, 2000
Page Views: 1,088
Submitted By: Lyle Monzyk on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).


This climb starts 30-40 feet before La Cholla Jackson, and 20-30 feet before Chunky Monkey. Look for a large dihedral with a distinct knife-edge arete in the corner. Great Expectations begins on an east-facing wall 3 climbs to the left of this arete. The picture included has this listed as #80.

The climbing starts by clipping a red homemade coldshut, and two other bolts before jumping around the arete on great holds (8). One should use long runners or unclip the second draw, and have your partner unclip the first to reduce rope drag. The climbing continues to a steep and juggy headwall with small roofs and long reaches. Good rests along with spectacular position and exposure makes this a great climb!!


Per 303scott: I think the route location description is wrong. I think it is the 3rd route to climber's RIGHT of the knife edge. 3rd to the left is an 11b.


9 bolts plus anchors.

Photos of Great Expectations Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse Jakomait starting up Great Expectations.
Jesse Jakomait starting up Great Expectations.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse stemming the upper section of Great Expectat...
Jesse stemming the upper section of Great Expectat...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading in Oct. '03.
Leading in Oct. '03.

Comments on Great Expectations Add Comment
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By Mic Fairchild
From: Boulder
Nov 3, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A fun and sustained route everyone should consider. As with most Cactus climbs, ratings may be a little soft.

Another fun line when you're cranking 10-15 pitches per day.
By Mikeco
From: Golden, CO
Apr 28, 2008

Only way to make it 10c is to stay out of the corner. In one place, about where shown in the picture I think you will have to use the corner to avoid making it harder than rated. But if you use it too much, the route will seem soft. Go straight up to the anchors from the last bolt and you will be crimping and not downrating the climb.
By 303scott
Mar 4, 2010

I think the route location description is wrong. I think it is the 3rd route to climber's RIGHT of the knife edge. 3rd to the left is an 11b.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 12, 2010

I used the corner for a couple moves as shown in the picture. Without it, there's no way this would be a 5.10.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 17, 2012

I assumed the corner/crack was the trad line Fishisms, so I tried only climbing the face. There is no way it is 5.10 or even 5.11 if you don't use the corner (I felt it was harder than the 11c I got on next). After flailing, I gave up and used the corner, in which case it felt more like 5.9. I just don't see how this goes at 10c unless you use some contrived sequence where the corner is "on" some times and not "on" other times....
By lucas dietrich
Feb 16, 2016

I climbed this on 2/15/16 after sending 14 Karats 2nd go. There is absolutely no way this rig is even close to 5.10. If you stay solely on the face and follow the bolt line, it is legitimately hard. Perhaps over time, some holds have broken off as there are scattered rock scars. If you want to keep this even mildly in the realm of moderate, the dirty corner is on. A bit of a run to the anchor. Not terribly recommended.
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Mar 6, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I'll reiterate. You'll have to cheat away from the bolt line. Otherwise, it's 5.12 territory.

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