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Center Buttress
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Great Escape 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: russellHOBART on Apr 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of route with a #1 C4 set for the crux


Well-protected, powerful crux near the ground. After the crux I protected out left for the next move. Then go up through the smooth dihedral to gain good pro. Move left under roof until you get to weakness and head up to crow's nest belay/rap anchor.


The crack just left of Super Direct.


Up to #2 C4 with an assortment of smaller pieces. Watch the rope drag. Double ropes suggested

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By Matt Westlake
From: Durham, NC
Sep 2, 2013

I tried this a while back and ran into a lot of sketchy loose rock between the start and the area below the big roof one presumably traverses left under. I ended up moving right to the Super Direct crack and setting a belay to get away and finished on that route.

I wasn't completely sold on the pro at the start and traversed in via an easy 5.6ish unprotected path from the left. Out of curiosity, how did this start roof move compare to Super Direct?
By Emil Briggs
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The move is about the same difficulty as Super Direct but I agree the pro doesn't inspire the same confidence as that on Super Direct.

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