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Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
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Analysis Paralysis T 
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Bullet T 
Cleft, The T 
Dodging the Bullet T 
East Ridge 
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Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress 
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T 
Left of Cleft 
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North Face Direct 
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Unsorted Routes:

Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress 


Type:  Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original: M4-5 [details]
Season: Winter
Page Views: 3,328
Submitted By: Kevin Landolt on Dec 19, 2010

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Near the end of P1 on Great Dihedral.


Nothing new here - people have been climbing Hallett's rock routes in winter for a long time. I found that Great Dihedral to Standard Route makes for an excellent mixed climb. The climbing is never desperate but is sustained and of high quality.


Snow slopes at the base of the route can be avy prone.

A potentially dangerous cornice forms above the exit on Standard Route, and some tunneling is required to gain the summit ridge.

This route is not conditions dependent and makes for a great mid-winter climb.


This is the obvious dihedral on the First Buttress.


A set of cams to 3 inches, hexes to BD #11, stoppers, pins, and Spectres.

Photos of Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris following up the first pitch.
Chris following up the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Erickson leading the second pitch on a storm...
Chris Erickson leading the second pitch on a storm...

Comments on Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress Add Comment
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By Jason Killgore
From: boulder, co
Jan 10, 2011

Only climbed the 1st pitch. There is a pretty tenuous move after pulling the small roof. A green C3 goes in, but probably best not to test it.
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Aug 3, 2014

Superb mixed climbing. No pins needed. A purple TCU is nice to have on the first pitch, otherwise kind of runout. One to do again and again.
By Justin Skaare
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 10, 2016

Used a single rack with doubles 0.75 to 2. Linking the 1st and 2nd pitches with a 70 (maybe a 60?) is the way to go. With a pitch of unroped climbing in the gully splitting the dyhedral and upper buttress, you can climb this rig in four ~60m rope stretching pitches (2 on the dyhedral and 2 on the upper buttress). Never thought it was run out, but I did think it was awesome ... a spectacular mixed route!
By Jonathan White
From: littleton, co
Mar 7, 2016

Someone added 2 pins at the top of pitch 2.

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