Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bogosity (Link-up) T 
Coffee Achievers T 
Disputed, The T 
Dynamo Hum T 
El, The T 
Flying Squirrels T 
Great Chimney T 
Lonely, The T 
Pete's Farewell T 
PF Flyers T 
Raging Raven S 
Roaches on the Wall T 
Rock and Roll Star T 
Run Higher, Jump Faster T 
Star Sailor T 
Wald-Calder Route T 

Great Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Jim Goodwin
Page Views: 1,970
Submitted By: DWABS on Jan 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tyler at the Pitch 1 belay of "The Great Chim...

Description 

P1: The start is a scramble up some blocks to a right facing corner. Up this to the opening of the chimney. Surmount the chockstone (crux) and into the mountain you go. Fixed anchor for belay. 5.6

P2: Scramble into the chimney to a thin crack on the road-side wall and begin to stem up the chimney. Eventually, step left to fixed anchor. 5.5

P3: Traverse across and downclimb to the summit boulders near the top of "Pete's Farewell". 5.2


Location 

Start same as "Pete's Farewell".

Protection 



Photos of Great Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldery start to the first pitch of "The Chi...
Bouldery start to the first pitch of "The Chi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up the neck of the chimney to the "w...
Climbing up the neck of the chimney to the "w...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam and Dylan at the first belay station on "...
Adam and Dylan at the first belay station on "...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the 2nd pitch.
View from the 2nd pitch.

Comments on Great Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Harrison
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

For Pitch 2, one can also chimney directly upward from the top of P1, then exit roadside through a "window" onto the main face. A short bit of climbing leads up to a ledge with a fixed anchor which can be used to descend into the chimney down to the P1 fixed anchor, or with 70m rope, down the face to the starting ledge. This latter method is tight; be sure your rope ends reach the ledge.
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Sep 6, 2016

If you follow the original route description or the Adirondack Rock description for P2, I found "step left" a little confusing---left while facing which wall?

Once you get to the square notch after stemming, the fixed anchor the guide mentions is up on the main (inner) face ~8' above the notch, behind you and to the left as you're facing the road (or up and to the right if you're facing the mountain).

Actually a fun exploration of a super cool feature.
By Chris Mp
From: Toronto, ON
Sep 15, 2016

P3 is the best pitch of the climb, that traverse across the top was not what I was expecting!!
For P2, we did not stem at all, we just climbed up the thin crack on the road-side wall. Climbing the thin crack felt more difficult than 5.5. I didn't even try to stem and I'm tall...those walls must be getting farther apart cause stem-ing did not seem like the way to go.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Sep 26, 2016

"I found "step left" a little confusing---left while facing which wall?"

Haha had the same thing happen to me! Guidebook-syndrome I suppose.

Anyway, this was a fun route! I stemmed and enjoyed the route as a whole- credit to ol' Frtiz! I wondered as I belayed atop P2 if decades ago, in that notch in the outside wall, Frtiz wedged himself in it to give Goodwin a hip belay and not be pulled out by a fall

It was my partners first multipitch and he felt like ending it at P2, though hearing this about P3 sounds sooo fun! I'll have to go back.