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Dungeon, The T 
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Hardgumbi's Lament T 
Nose, The T 
Rapunzel T 
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Great Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 15, 2013

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This route ascends the cleft between the two big chunks of the Castle itself. Look for a big chimney feature in a right facing flake feature directly below some blocky roofs. All pitches are between 100’ & 140’.

P1 – 5.8 – Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125’ to a ledge.

P2 – 5.9- - Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.

P3 – Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.

P4 – Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.


The major chimney system that splits the main crag halfway between The Nose route and the big, tree filled gully.


Gear to 6".

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