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Greasy Kid Stuff 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, 1970's
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Adam Kimmerly on May 26, 2009

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Climb thin cracks and flakes up the slab between the Guillotine and Graham Crackers to a short fist crack ending 80' up. Here the difficulties begin with a tough-to-protect seam (bring micro-nuts), then a horizontal with a shallow blue Alien sized pin scar, and 20' of slab (crux) to the rap anchor. The upper slab is a bit contrived, avoiding a short traverse left to easier, more featured rock. Climb up the center of the slab for full effect.


Rappel the route with a 70m or two ropes, or climb easier terrain to the top and walk off.


Nuts and small cams for the bottom, then a #3 or #4 Camalot for the fist crack, and micronuts and a blue Alien (or equivalent) to protect the runout to the top.

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By Adam Kimmerly
May 26, 2009

Climbing straight up the center of the blank slab from the pin scar seemed like the coolest line, but also the hardest and felt more like 10b/c. Moving slightly right looked like it may have been a tad easier with better looking dishes to smear in. Moving left looked easy and off-route. Clark Jacobs indicated that there used to be a fixed pin in the horizontal to protect the runout at the top. The pin is gone and the scar was full of dirt. Once cleaned out, it took a relatively good blue Alien which probably would have held a fall from the crux. If not, it would have been a LONG ride down to the last good piece!
By Tradiban
Sep 17, 2014

Maybe a green C3 will work in the upper horizontal.
By dnaiscool
Mar 23, 2015

I stabbed a "0" TCU (the purple one) in where that top pin once was, and in my notes I called this a "MUST HAVE" piece for that placement. This route is not for the trembling leader. The rest of my rack: #.75-3 Camalot (one each); .5-4 Tricam; #3-5 Steelnut; #4-10 Stopper; #1,2 TCU...and...hold the phone...a #3 Loweball!!

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